Copenhagen for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Copper roofs, bicycles, and the long northern dusk.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: Canals and a hot tub
- Christianshavn canals
The quietest quarter, houseboats and leaning warehouses along the water; walk one bank and back over the wooden bridges, then sit.
- CopenHot
Wood-fired hot tubs and a sauna on the harbour's edge, booked by the hour, with a plunge into the sea between; the city lights across the water.
- Lumskebugten
An 1854 harbour tavern by Kastellet with oil lamps, fried herring, and a name that means the treacherous bay; take the early table and the early night.
Saturday: Breakfast, palms, a long dinner
- Atelier September
A bright breakfast room with a short menu of eggs, toast and good coffee, a few steps from the King's Garden. Order slowly and stay until you stop.
- Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek
The brewer's collection of Rodin and Gauguin round a winter garden of palms; the one sight today, with coffee under the glass dome afterwards.
- Høst
A Nordic room of pale wood and candles where the set menu comes slowly and the kitchen never hurries; an early dinner and a walk back.
Sunday: The Frederiksberg bath
- Frederiksberg Svømmehal
A 1934 public bath with mosaic halls, a spa floor of saunas and a warm pool; a Sunday morning ticket and nowhere else to be.
- Sokkelund
A Frederiksberg brasserie with a Sunday lunch that runs to the afternoon, moules, a glass of white and the newspapers.
- Frederiksberg Have
The romantic park below the yellow palace, with canals, a Chinese pavilion and benches for the last of the light; the elephants are behind the zoo fence.
Monday: A palm house and a quiet collection
- Botanisk Have
The 1874 palm house and the lakeside garden, free and near empty on a Monday morning; the spiral stairs inside the glass are the warmest spot.
- Davids Samling
An Islamic art collection in a merchant's townhouse, free, dim and silent, with miniatures and carpets you can stand in front of for ten minutes.
- Café Europa
A coffeehouse on Amagertorv beside the Stork Fountain, a sandwich and a slow coffee at the window before the airport metro.