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Copenhagen for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Copper roofs, bicycles, and the long northern dusk.

The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.

Friday: Canals and a hot tub

  1. Christianshavn canals

    The quietest quarter, houseboats and leaning warehouses along the water; walk one bank and back over the wooden bridges, then sit.

  2. CopenHot

    Wood-fired hot tubs and a sauna on the harbour's edge, booked by the hour, with a plunge into the sea between; the city lights across the water.

  3. Lumskebugten

    An 1854 harbour tavern by Kastellet with oil lamps, fried herring, and a name that means the treacherous bay; take the early table and the early night.

Saturday: Breakfast, palms, a long dinner

  1. Atelier September

    A bright breakfast room with a short menu of eggs, toast and good coffee, a few steps from the King's Garden. Order slowly and stay until you stop.

  2. Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

    The brewer's collection of Rodin and Gauguin round a winter garden of palms; the one sight today, with coffee under the glass dome afterwards.

  3. Høst

    A Nordic room of pale wood and candles where the set menu comes slowly and the kitchen never hurries; an early dinner and a walk back.

Sunday: The Frederiksberg bath

  1. Frederiksberg Svømmehal

    A 1934 public bath with mosaic halls, a spa floor of saunas and a warm pool; a Sunday morning ticket and nowhere else to be.

  2. Sokkelund

    A Frederiksberg brasserie with a Sunday lunch that runs to the afternoon, moules, a glass of white and the newspapers.

  3. Frederiksberg Have

    The romantic park below the yellow palace, with canals, a Chinese pavilion and benches for the last of the light; the elephants are behind the zoo fence.

Monday: A palm house and a quiet collection

  1. Botanisk Have

    The 1874 palm house and the lakeside garden, free and near empty on a Monday morning; the spiral stairs inside the glass are the warmest spot.

  2. Davids Samling

    An Islamic art collection in a merchant's townhouse, free, dim and silent, with miniatures and carpets you can stand in front of for ten minutes.

  3. Café Europa

    A coffeehouse on Amagertorv beside the Stork Fountain, a sandwich and a slow coffee at the window before the airport metro.

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