Copenhagen for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Copper roofs, bicycles, and the long northern dusk.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: First swim
- Islands Brygge Havnebadet
Jump into the harbour where the city does, cold and clean, with the Christianshavn spires across the water.
- Harbour bus to Refshaleøen
Ride the yellow 991 ferry past the Opera and the old shipyard cranes for the price of a bus ticket.
- La Banchina
Sixteen seats, a wood-fired kitchen and a swim pier outside, natural wine poured by whoever is nearest the bottle.
Saturday: Out to the sea
- Amager Strandpark at dawn
Two kilometres of artificial beach and lagoon with the Øresund Bridge on the horizon and the windmills turning.
- Dragør by bike
Ride the coastal path to the old fishing town of yellow houses and thatched roofs, harbour pilots still working from the quay.
- Sanchez
A counter seat at Rosio Sanchez's Vesterbro cantina, tacos from Danish corn and mezcal from the shelf.
Sunday: Train north
- Louisiana by train
Forty minutes up the coast line, then the walk through the sculpture park to the sea and Calder on the lawn.
- Ferry to Sweden from Helsingør
Continue to Helsingør and cross the Øresund in twenty minutes, past Kronborg, for an hour's walk in Helsingborg.
- Slurp Ramen Joint
A bowl of shoyu ramen at the counter, no reservations, the broth made from Danish pork bones.
Monday: Dawn lap
- Run the Lakes
Six kilometres round the three city lakes with the swans and the rowers, back before the bridges fill with cyclists.
- Kayak Republic
An hour's kayak through the Christianshavn canals under the low bridges, the only way to see the city from below.
- Hallernes Smørrebrød
Three pieces of smørrebrød at the stall, then the metro from Nørreport straight to the airport.