Florence for The Curious Wanderers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
The Renaissance, still within walking distance of lunch.
No theme, just the city at its best. The sights that earn their reputation, a workshop or a market, one strange place nobody told you about, and dinner where the food is the point.
Friday: Monks, perfume and pasta
- Piazza della Signoria
Neptune's fountain, the copy of David and the Loggia dei Lanzi, in an open-air sculpture gallery; the stone plaque marks where Savonarola burned.
- Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
A frescoed pharmacy-turned-perfumery run by Dominican friars since 1612, still selling the potions and creams in the original wooden cabinets.
- Trattoria Anita
A traditional Tuscan trattoria with a cash-only bill and honest plates; the tagliatelle with boar ragù and a plate of crostini are the staples.
Saturday: David and the workshops
- Galleria dell'Accademia
Michelangelo's David stands alone at the end of the hall, with the unfinished Prisoners leading up to him; closed Mondays, and timed slots sell out.
- Opificio delle Pietre Dure
A restoration workshop and museum for the stone-inlay craft of the grand dukes, and the lab that repairs the Uffizi's masterpieces.
- All'Antico Vinaio
Take the famous schiacciata with porchetta or salami and pecorino and eat it standing at the counter or on the Santa Croce steps.
- Scuola del Cuoio
A leather school founded by Franciscan friars behind Santa Croce; watch students stitch wallets and bags in the workshop, with no obligation to buy.
Sunday: The armoury and the hill
- Museo Stibbert
A collector's mansion of 16,000 pieces of armour, with a cavalcade of mounted knights in the hall; the strangest museum in Florence, open on Sundays.
- Trattoria Cammillo
A Sunday lunch at an old-school Oltrarno trattoria, with tripe, tortelli and a carafe of Chianti, and a short walk back to the river.
- Basilica di San Miniato al Monte
Eleventh-century marble and a cemetery of cypress-lined tombs, high above the city; the light is best here late in the day.
Monday: Frescoes and a square
- Cappella Brancacci
Masaccio and Masolino's frescoes, which taught Michelangelo how to paint; the Carmine church is across the river and quiet on Monday morning.
- Piazza Santo Spirito
The Oltrarno's living room: a plain Brunelleschi facade, a fountain, café tables and plenty of locals, and a stage for the weekend market.
- Osteria Santo Spirito
Lunch on the square before the airport, with a plate of pici and a glass of red; sit outside if it is warm.