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Florence for The Curious Wanderers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The Renaissance, still within walking distance of lunch.

No theme, just the city at its best. The sights that earn their reputation, a workshop or a market, one strange place nobody told you about, and dinner where the food is the point.

Friday: Monks, perfume and pasta

  1. Piazza della Signoria

    Neptune's fountain, the copy of David and the Loggia dei Lanzi, in an open-air sculpture gallery; the stone plaque marks where Savonarola burned.

  2. Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

    A frescoed pharmacy-turned-perfumery run by Dominican friars since 1612, still selling the potions and creams in the original wooden cabinets.

  3. Trattoria Anita

    A traditional Tuscan trattoria with a cash-only bill and honest plates; the tagliatelle with boar ragù and a plate of crostini are the staples.

Saturday: David and the workshops

  1. Galleria dell'Accademia

    Michelangelo's David stands alone at the end of the hall, with the unfinished Prisoners leading up to him; closed Mondays, and timed slots sell out.

  2. Opificio delle Pietre Dure

    A restoration workshop and museum for the stone-inlay craft of the grand dukes, and the lab that repairs the Uffizi's masterpieces.

  3. All'Antico Vinaio

    Take the famous schiacciata with porchetta or salami and pecorino and eat it standing at the counter or on the Santa Croce steps.

  4. Scuola del Cuoio

    A leather school founded by Franciscan friars behind Santa Croce; watch students stitch wallets and bags in the workshop, with no obligation to buy.

Sunday: The armoury and the hill

  1. Museo Stibbert

    A collector's mansion of 16,000 pieces of armour, with a cavalcade of mounted knights in the hall; the strangest museum in Florence, open on Sundays.

  2. Trattoria Cammillo

    A Sunday lunch at an old-school Oltrarno trattoria, with tripe, tortelli and a carafe of Chianti, and a short walk back to the river.

  3. Basilica di San Miniato al Monte

    Eleventh-century marble and a cemetery of cypress-lined tombs, high above the city; the light is best here late in the day.

Monday: Frescoes and a square

  1. Cappella Brancacci

    Masaccio and Masolino's frescoes, which taught Michelangelo how to paint; the Carmine church is across the river and quiet on Monday morning.

  2. Piazza Santo Spirito

    The Oltrarno's living room: a plain Brunelleschi facade, a fountain, café tables and plenty of locals, and a stage for the weekend market.

  3. Osteria Santo Spirito

    Lunch on the square before the airport, with a plate of pici and a glass of red; sit outside if it is warm.

Other ways to see Florence