Florence for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
The Renaissance, still within walking distance of lunch.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Counters and bridges
- Piazza del Duomo
Walk once around the cathedral, the Baptistery and the Bell Tower to get your bearings; the Baptistery's bronze doors are the detail to study.
- Ponte Santa Trinita
The elegant bridge with a good view of the Ponte Vecchio, and a good place to watch the evening begin on your own.
- Le Volpi e l'Uva
Sit at the wine bar's counter, order three small glasses and a plate of cheese and cured meats, and talk to whoever is next to you.
Saturday: The gallery at opening
- Uffizi Gallery
Be there at opening on a timed ticket and see Botticelli's Birth of Venus before the tour groups arrive at ten; closed Mondays.
- Nerbone
A counter at the market for a lampredotto or bollito roll, standing among the market porters since 1872; cash is easiest.
- Basilica di Santa Croce
The tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli, with Giotto's frescoes in the side chapels; audio guides are worth the few extra euros.
- Mercato Centrale Firenze
A food hall with a stall for every craving, shared tables and no need to book; it is the easy way to eat alone.
Sunday: Sunrise and a tower
- Piazzale Michelangelo
Climb the ramps from San Niccolò before breakfast and have the terrace to yourself; the light on the Duomo is at its softest.
- Museo Galileo
Two floors of scientific instruments, including Galileo's own telescope lenses and his preserved finger; an hour is enough.
- All'Antico Vinaio
The schiacciata with porchetta, eaten at the street counter among locals, is the solo traveller's best lunch in town.
- Palazzo Vecchio
Walk through the Hall of the Five Hundred, then up the tower for the sunset-side view; a short queue on Sunday afternoons.
Monday: The last climb
- Brunelleschi's Dome
Take the first entry slot to climb the dome with the fewest people; the narrow stairs are easier before the groups arrive.
- Trattoria da Rocco
A canteen inside the Sant'Ambrogio market with a few shared tables and a daily pasta; it closes at 14:30, so arrive early.