Florence for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
The Renaissance, still within walking distance of lunch.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: Arrival at a run
- Parco delle Cascine
Run the flat path along the Arno from the Ponte Vecchio to the Cascine park, about five kilometres each way, with rowers on the river alongside.
- Piazzale Michelangelo
Take the Poggi ramps and stairs up from San Niccolò, about two hundred steps, and reach the top for the sunset over the whole city.
- Il Pizzaiuolo
A loud Neapolitan pizzeria in Sant'Ambrogio where the margherita is the reference and the queue moves fast; book or arrive early.
Saturday: Dome, tower and two wheels
- Brunelleschi's Dome
Climb 463 steps between the two shells of the dome at first entry, with the Bell Tower's 414 steps for the afternoon; the Brunelleschi Pass covers both.
- All'Antico Vinaio
The schiacciata sandwich that built a queue: take a porchetta and pecorino one down to Piazza Santa Croce and eat it on the steps.
- Florence by Bike
Hire road bikes and ride the Arno path to the Cascine and back, or push on to Fiesole's hills; helmets come with the hire.
- Il Santo Bevitore
Recovery in the Oltrarno: ribollita, a thick Tuscan steak for two and a lot of bread, in a vaulted room that fills up early.
Sunday: Up to Fiesole
- Teatro Romano di Fiesole
Take bus 7 up to the Etruscan hill town and walk the Roman theatre and baths, which are almost empty before the Sunday crowds arrive.
- Via Vecchia Fiesolana
Hike back down the old stone lane through olive terraces and walled villas, about six kilometres to San Domenico and then the city.
- Il Latini
Earn a late lunch at the shared tables: a Fiorentina steak, hams hanging from the beams and the house red poured by the carafe.
Monday: Last climb
- Palazzo Vecchio
Climb the 418 steps of Arnolfo's tower, which opens early and gives the finest view of the Duomo with almost no queue on a Monday.
- Nerbone
A market stall since 1872: a lampredotto sandwich, the tripe roll of Florence, dipped in its own broth, for a cheap, carb-heavy farewell.