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Florence for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The Renaissance, still within walking distance of lunch.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: Arrival at a run

  1. Parco delle Cascine

    Run the flat path along the Arno from the Ponte Vecchio to the Cascine park, about five kilometres each way, with rowers on the river alongside.

  2. Piazzale Michelangelo

    Take the Poggi ramps and stairs up from San Niccolò, about two hundred steps, and reach the top for the sunset over the whole city.

  3. Il Pizzaiuolo

    A loud Neapolitan pizzeria in Sant'Ambrogio where the margherita is the reference and the queue moves fast; book or arrive early.

Saturday: Dome, tower and two wheels

  1. Brunelleschi's Dome

    Climb 463 steps between the two shells of the dome at first entry, with the Bell Tower's 414 steps for the afternoon; the Brunelleschi Pass covers both.

  2. All'Antico Vinaio

    The schiacciata sandwich that built a queue: take a porchetta and pecorino one down to Piazza Santa Croce and eat it on the steps.

  3. Florence by Bike

    Hire road bikes and ride the Arno path to the Cascine and back, or push on to Fiesole's hills; helmets come with the hire.

  4. Il Santo Bevitore

    Recovery in the Oltrarno: ribollita, a thick Tuscan steak for two and a lot of bread, in a vaulted room that fills up early.

Sunday: Up to Fiesole

  1. Teatro Romano di Fiesole

    Take bus 7 up to the Etruscan hill town and walk the Roman theatre and baths, which are almost empty before the Sunday crowds arrive.

  2. Via Vecchia Fiesolana

    Hike back down the old stone lane through olive terraces and walled villas, about six kilometres to San Domenico and then the city.

  3. Il Latini

    Earn a late lunch at the shared tables: a Fiorentina steak, hams hanging from the beams and the house red poured by the carafe.

Monday: Last climb

  1. Palazzo Vecchio

    Climb the 418 steps of Arnolfo's tower, which opens early and gives the finest view of the Duomo with almost no queue on a Monday.

  2. Nerbone

    A market stall since 1872: a lampredotto sandwich, the tripe roll of Florence, dipped in its own broth, for a cheap, carb-heavy farewell.

Other ways to see Florence