Florence for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
The Renaissance, still within walking distance of lunch.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: Jazz and cocktails
- Le Volpi e l'Uva
A proper aperitivo of Tuscan wines by the glass and a plate of cured meats, just behind the Ponte Vecchio before the evening gets going.
- Jazz Club Firenze
A cellar club with nightly live sets and a membership card at the door; the late set is the better one.
- Locale Firenze
A cocktail bar in a medieval palazzo with a low door and a long menu of house drinks; bar seats are first come, first served.
Saturday: Opera arias and a rooftop
- Mercato Centrale Firenze
The upstairs food hall is open until midnight; a late lunch of pasta, burgers or a Tuscan steak at the counter suits a slow start.
- Chiesa di Santo Stefano al Ponte
Opera highlights and arias sung by a small ensemble in a Romanesque church beside the Ponte Vecchio; check the evening's programme.
- SE·STO on Arno
A rooftop on top of the Westin Excelsior with a view of the Duomo and the Arno; open until midnight, and the cocktails are strong.
- Tenax
Florence's big electronic club, in an industrial warehouse near the airport; take a taxi, check the listings and plan for a 02:00 peak.
Sunday: Brunch and a late supper
- Ditta Artigianale
A third-wave coffee roaster with an all-day brunch and a hidden garden in the Oltrarno; the flat white clears the head.
- Museo Novecento
A twentieth-century collection in a former hospital, with de Chirico and Marino Marini, a gentle afternoon before the evening.
- Caffè Concerto Paszkowski
A grand old café with live piano and evening music on the square; a late spritz and a plate of tramezzini.
Monday: Dawn breakfast
- Forno Pugi
A schiacciata or a cornetto from the neighbourhood bakery, the proper breakfast after a long night, and a short walk to San Marco.
- Basilica di Santa Croce
Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli lie in the same church; arrive at opening and the cloister is quiet before you collect the bags.