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Florence for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The Renaissance, still within walking distance of lunch.

The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.

Friday: Jazz and cocktails

  1. Le Volpi e l'Uva

    A proper aperitivo of Tuscan wines by the glass and a plate of cured meats, just behind the Ponte Vecchio before the evening gets going.

  2. Jazz Club Firenze

    A cellar club with nightly live sets and a membership card at the door; the late set is the better one.

  3. Locale Firenze

    A cocktail bar in a medieval palazzo with a low door and a long menu of house drinks; bar seats are first come, first served.

Saturday: Opera arias and a rooftop

  1. Mercato Centrale Firenze

    The upstairs food hall is open until midnight; a late lunch of pasta, burgers or a Tuscan steak at the counter suits a slow start.

  2. Chiesa di Santo Stefano al Ponte

    Opera highlights and arias sung by a small ensemble in a Romanesque church beside the Ponte Vecchio; check the evening's programme.

  3. SE·STO on Arno

    A rooftop on top of the Westin Excelsior with a view of the Duomo and the Arno; open until midnight, and the cocktails are strong.

  4. Tenax

    Florence's big electronic club, in an industrial warehouse near the airport; take a taxi, check the listings and plan for a 02:00 peak.

Sunday: Brunch and a late supper

  1. Ditta Artigianale

    A third-wave coffee roaster with an all-day brunch and a hidden garden in the Oltrarno; the flat white clears the head.

  2. Museo Novecento

    A twentieth-century collection in a former hospital, with de Chirico and Marino Marini, a gentle afternoon before the evening.

  3. Caffè Concerto Paszkowski

    A grand old café with live piano and evening music on the square; a late spritz and a plate of tramezzini.

Monday: Dawn breakfast

  1. Forno Pugi

    A schiacciata or a cornetto from the neighbourhood bakery, the proper breakfast after a long night, and a short walk to San Marco.

  2. Basilica di Santa Croce

    Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli lie in the same church; arrive at opening and the cloister is quiet before you collect the bags.

Other ways to see Florence