Florence for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The tiny deli where Florence invented the truffle panino in 1885: two small rolls and a glass of prosecco, at the bar, before dinner.

Pilgrimage dinner: the butter-fried chicken breast and the artichoke omelette, at shared tables in a room that has barely changed; cash only and closed at weekends.

The locals' market, quieter than San Lorenzo: stalls of cheeses, vegetables and Tuscan salami, with a coffee at the bar and a few tastings.

A hands-on lesson in fresh pasta and a Tuscan sauce, followed by eating what you cooked at the table; the market stop is on the way in.

The serious dinner: the Cibrèo cooks unlike anyone else, with no pasta on the menu, and the famous cold sformato and cockerel in the same room.

The Pugi bakery's schiacciata and a pizza by the slice, still warm, eaten on a bench across the square from the church.

A sunny table in the square for a long lunch of crostini, pasta and a sliced steak; the garlic bread comes first, and so does the wine.

A wine bar behind Santa Felicita with a counter of small-grower Tuscan labels, a cheese board and a very patient owner; order by the glass.

The iron-and-glass market hall: butchers, cheese, truffle and fish on the ground floor, open from early morning on weekdays until about 14:00.

Boiled beef or lampredotto in a roll since 1872, eaten standing at the market counter; the bollito is the old Florentine breakfast.

One last cash-only lunch at the shared tables, with a plate of pasta and the Florentine roast, before heading to the airport.