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Montreal for The Family Explorers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

An island city that argues with winter in two languages.

A weekend the children will remember and the parents will survive. Short walks between real highlights, a boat or a tram instead of a museum queue, dinners at six, and room to run.

Friday: Playground, poutine and a wheel

  1. Parc La Fontaine

    Two ponds, ducks, playgrounds and a big lawn; let the children run off the flight before dinner.

  2. La Banquise

    Open all night since 1968 and kid-friendly early on: thirty kinds of poutine on the board; order La Classique and share.

  3. La Grande Roue de Montréal

    A 60-metre Ferris wheel lit up over the Old Port; the ride is twenty minutes, with the city and the river on both sides.

Saturday: Ecosystems and insects

  1. Biodôme

    Five ecosystems under one roof, from rainforest with sloths to a St Lawrence marine tank and penguins; go at opening for quiet.

  2. Insectarium and Jardin botanique

    A rebuilt insectarium with live bugs and a greenhouse of butterflies, within the botanical garden; the Chinese lanterns glow in autumn.

  3. Schwartz's

    Smoked meat on rye with a pickle at shared tables; go early to beat the line, and ask for fries on the side.

Sunday: A science centre and a ride

  1. Montreal Science Centre

    Hands-on exhibits on the Old Port pier, with an IMAX cinema; the children can build, steer and splash for a good three hours.

  2. Old Port pedal and play

    Rent a pedal cart or take the children along the quay to the Clock Tower; there are playgrounds and seagulls on every pier.

  3. Pizzeria Napoletana

    A neighbourhood pizzeria with a wood-fired oven and a family room; the margherita is the one to order, and the kitchen is quick.

Monday: Ruins under the old city

  1. Pointe-à-Callière

    Children can walk under the old city through Montreal's first sewer and a Catholic cemetery; the audio guide has a children's route.

  2. Olive et Gourmando

    A bakery café in Old Montreal serving pressed sandwiches and brownies; take a table early, as the queue builds from eleven.

  3. Quai de l'Horloge

    A long pier to the 1922 Clock Tower, with views over the river and the Jacques-Cartier bridge; a short stroll before the airport.

Other ways to see Montreal