Montreal for The Family Explorers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
An island city that argues with winter in two languages.
A weekend the children will remember and the parents will survive. Short walks between real highlights, a boat or a tram instead of a museum queue, dinners at six, and room to run.
Friday: Playground, poutine and a wheel
- Parc La Fontaine
Two ponds, ducks, playgrounds and a big lawn; let the children run off the flight before dinner.
- La Banquise
Open all night since 1968 and kid-friendly early on: thirty kinds of poutine on the board; order La Classique and share.
- La Grande Roue de Montréal
A 60-metre Ferris wheel lit up over the Old Port; the ride is twenty minutes, with the city and the river on both sides.
Saturday: Ecosystems and insects
- Biodôme
Five ecosystems under one roof, from rainforest with sloths to a St Lawrence marine tank and penguins; go at opening for quiet.
- Insectarium and Jardin botanique
A rebuilt insectarium with live bugs and a greenhouse of butterflies, within the botanical garden; the Chinese lanterns glow in autumn.
- Schwartz's
Smoked meat on rye with a pickle at shared tables; go early to beat the line, and ask for fries on the side.
Sunday: A science centre and a ride
- Montreal Science Centre
Hands-on exhibits on the Old Port pier, with an IMAX cinema; the children can build, steer and splash for a good three hours.
- Old Port pedal and play
Rent a pedal cart or take the children along the quay to the Clock Tower; there are playgrounds and seagulls on every pier.
- Pizzeria Napoletana
A neighbourhood pizzeria with a wood-fired oven and a family room; the margherita is the one to order, and the kitchen is quick.
Monday: Ruins under the old city
- Pointe-à-Callière
Children can walk under the old city through Montreal's first sewer and a Catholic cemetery; the audio guide has a children's route.
- Olive et Gourmando
A bakery café in Old Montreal serving pressed sandwiches and brownies; take a table early, as the queue builds from eleven.
- Quai de l'Horloge
A long pier to the 1922 Clock Tower, with views over the river and the Jacques-Cartier bridge; a short stroll before the airport.