Montreal for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
An island city that argues with winter in two languages.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Pei, vaults and a light show
- Place Ville Marie
I. M. Pei and Henry Cobb's cruciform tower of 1962, the first building to plug into the underground city; cross the plaza and look back.
- AURA at Notre-Dame Basilica
An evening light-and-music show in the Gothic Revival nave, a good way to see the vault in the dark; book the 19:00 slot.
- Garde-Manger
A noisy, high-energy bistro in the former customs district of Old Montreal, with seafood and a long wine list; sit at the bar if you like to watch the kitchen.
Saturday: 1642 to the railway barons
- Pointe-à-Callière
Walk the foundations of the 1642 fort and the first Catholic cemetery under glass, with the old sewer running beneath; the crypt is the best of the three buildings.
- Château Ramezay
A 1705 governor's house with vaulted cellars and Nantes-made panelling; Benjamin Franklin stayed in the room upstairs during the American occupation of 1776.
- Bar George
Dinner in the 1880 mansion of the railway baron who co-founded the CPR, panelled in walnut, with cocktails in the library.
Sunday: Expo 67 and its leftovers
- Biosphère
Buckminster Fuller's 76-metre geodesic dome, the US pavilion that lost its acrylic skin to a fire in 1976; the escalator through the steel frame is the point.
- Habitat 67 guided tour
Moshe Safdie's stacked concrete boxes, 354 modules in 146 homes, each with a garden on someone else's roof; the guided tour is the only way inside.
- Foxy
Wood-fired cooking in a clean-lined room of oak and white tile, with the kitchen on view; the right modern dinner after a day of concrete.
Monday: Olympics and the library
- Montreal Tower observatory
Roger Taillibert's 165-metre inclined tower beside the Olympic Stadium, the tallest leaning structure in the world; the funicular is the way up.
- Grande Bibliothèque
Patkau's library of fritted glass and yellow birch, the wooden reading rooms stacked inside a glass box; free to enter and rest.
- Place Bonaventure food court
Eat inside Raymond Affleck's 1967 brutalist megastructure, a concrete fortress with a roof garden; a quick lunch before the airport bus.