All cities · Montreal

Montreal for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

An island city that argues with winter in two languages.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: Pei, vaults and a light show

  1. Place Ville Marie

    I. M. Pei and Henry Cobb's cruciform tower of 1962, the first building to plug into the underground city; cross the plaza and look back.

  2. AURA at Notre-Dame Basilica

    An evening light-and-music show in the Gothic Revival nave, a good way to see the vault in the dark; book the 19:00 slot.

  3. Garde-Manger

    A noisy, high-energy bistro in the former customs district of Old Montreal, with seafood and a long wine list; sit at the bar if you like to watch the kitchen.

Saturday: 1642 to the railway barons

  1. Pointe-à-Callière

    Walk the foundations of the 1642 fort and the first Catholic cemetery under glass, with the old sewer running beneath; the crypt is the best of the three buildings.

  2. Château Ramezay

    A 1705 governor's house with vaulted cellars and Nantes-made panelling; Benjamin Franklin stayed in the room upstairs during the American occupation of 1776.

  3. Bar George

    Dinner in the 1880 mansion of the railway baron who co-founded the CPR, panelled in walnut, with cocktails in the library.

Sunday: Expo 67 and its leftovers

  1. Biosphère

    Buckminster Fuller's 76-metre geodesic dome, the US pavilion that lost its acrylic skin to a fire in 1976; the escalator through the steel frame is the point.

  2. Habitat 67 guided tour

    Moshe Safdie's stacked concrete boxes, 354 modules in 146 homes, each with a garden on someone else's roof; the guided tour is the only way inside.

  3. Foxy

    Wood-fired cooking in a clean-lined room of oak and white tile, with the kitchen on view; the right modern dinner after a day of concrete.

Monday: Olympics and the library

  1. Montreal Tower observatory

    Roger Taillibert's 165-metre inclined tower beside the Olympic Stadium, the tallest leaning structure in the world; the funicular is the way up.

  2. Grande Bibliothèque

    Patkau's library of fritted glass and yellow birch, the wooden reading rooms stacked inside a glass box; free to enter and rest.

  3. Place Bonaventure food court

    Eat inside Raymond Affleck's 1967 brutalist megastructure, a concrete fortress with a roof garden; a quick lunch before the airport bus.

Other ways to see Montreal