Montreal for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
An island city that argues with winter in two languages.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: Tiki, jazz and a basement bar
- Le Mal Nécessaire
Down a staircase marked by a neon pineapple, tiki drinks and dumplings in a Chinatown cellar; the right way to open a night.
- Upstairs Jazz Bar & Grill
A basement jazz club that has run two sets a night for decades, with a low ceiling and good sightlines; get there before the first set.
- Diving Bell Social Club
A bar over a bistro on the Main with a stage for local bands and a roof terrace in warm weather; a last drink in the dark.
Saturday: Brunch at noon, a show, a dive
- Beautys Luncheonette
The Mish-Mash omelette and a bagel at the 1942 diner counter; arrive at noon, not before, and the line will have gone.
- Sala Rossa
A Mile End hall upstairs from a Spanish restaurant, with indie, jazz and flamenco evenings; check the programme and buy a ticket at the door.
- Foufounes Électriques
A punk bar since 1983 with a graffitied terrace and bands in a big room; the cover is small and the beer is cheap.
Sunday: Coffee, repertory cinema and a concert
- Café Olimpico
An Italian espresso bar from 1970 with football on the television; a macchiato and a panino set up a long day.
- Cinéma du Parc
A repertory cinema on the edge of the McGill ghetto with art-house and revival screenings; the afternoon show is a gentle prelude.
- Club Soda
A grand old music hall with a flat floor and a balcony, hosting touring rock, hip-hop and comedy; check the listing and buy online.
Monday: Bagels at dawn and the last coffee
- Fairmount Bagel
Open round the clock since 1919: take a sesame bagel straight from the oven and a coffee on the way home from the night.
- Kondiaronk Belvedere
The chalet terrace on the mountain, with the downtown towers in front and the river beyond; a quiet place to wake up.
- Wilensky's Light Lunch
Since 1932: the Special, a fried bologna and salami on a pressed roll, mustard mandatory; a last cherry cola before the airport.