Montreal for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The wood-fired oven has not gone out since 1957; watch the rollers hand-shape honey-water bagels and take a warm dozen away.

Smoked meat cured ten days and steamed to order since 1928, served medium-fat on rye with a pickle and a cherry cola; sit at the counter.

The Joe Beef team's natural wine bar, with small plates of vegetables and oysters; share three or four plates and ask for a glass of Quebec cider.

The largest open-air market in North America: squash and maple syrup in autumn, Quebec garlic and cheese; a coffee and a crêpe while the stalls open.

Ask for raw-milk Louis d'Or, Bleu d'Élizabeth and a washed-rind 1608, then taste them on a baguette; the counter staff will happily pick for you.

The city's most-loved restaurant, oysters and lobster spaghetti in a woody dining room; book weeks ahead and eat everything the table suggests.

The Mish-Mash omelette and a bagel at the 1942 diner counter, run by the same family since the beginning; arrive early for a stool.

The 1933 art-deco market hall by the Lachine Canal, with butchers downstairs and maple and cheese counters beside the stairs.

Two brothers cooking their Singaporean mother's laksa and pork-belly buns in a room of red lanterns; the easiest good dinner in Saint-Henri.

A bakery and café in Old Montreal where the line is for the pressed sandwiches and the pastry case; order the Cuban and a croissant.

The silver-domed market building of 1847, now filled with Quebec designers and food shops; look for maple products and ice cider.

Since 1932: the Special, a fried bologna and salami on a pressed roll, mustard mandatory, served with a cherry cola at the counter.