Montreal for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
An island city that argues with winter in two languages.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: Old Port and a Nordic spa
- Old Port promenade
Walk the long quay past the Clock Tower and the Ferris wheel, with the river on one side and the old warehouses on the other.
- Scandinave Spa Vieux-Montréal
A Nordic spa in a former warehouse: hot baths, steam and a cold plunge; book the early evening slot and stay silent.
- Liverpool House
A lively Joe Beef sibling on Rue Notre-Dame with oysters, seafood and a long wine list. Reserve the early seating and be in bed before midnight.
Saturday: Market morning and a museum
- Marché Jean-Talon
The largest open-air market in North America; walk it slowly, buy a bag of apples and a bunch of herbs, and have a coffee.
- Pizzeria Napoletana
A neighbourhood pizzeria with a wood-fired oven and a family room; a long Saturday lunch of pizza and a carafe of red.
- McCord Stewart Museum
A museum of Montreal's own history in a McGill building, with a costume collection and a lovely little cafe; a small gallery afternoon.
Sunday: The mountain and a brasserie
- Beaver Lake and Smith House
A stroll to the lake in the middle of the mountain and a coffee at the Smith House café; the maples are very good in October.
- Brasserie T!
Toqué!'s casual brasserie, serving a long lunch of duck, frites and a good house wine; the best table in the house is by the window.
- Canadian Centre for Architecture
A small museum wrapped around the 1874 Shaughnessy House, with a garden and a quiet gallery; a restful hour before an early night.
Monday: Breakfast and a crypt
- Olive et Gourmando
A bakery café in Old Montreal serving pressed sandwiches and brownies; a slow breakfast with a flat white.
- Old Port Clock Tower pier
A long pier to the 1922 tower, with views over the river and the Jacques-Cartier bridge; a gentle stretch of the legs.
- Pointe-à-Callière
The archaeology museum on the site of the first settlement, with a short film and a crypt tour; end the weekend underground.