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Montreal for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

An island city that argues with winter in two languages.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: Steps, steam and poutine

  1. Escalier Peel climb

    Take the steps from Peel up the mountain's southern flank to the Chalet lookout; repeat twice if you want the legs to complain.

  2. Bota Bota spa

    A spa on a converted ferry in the Old Port: hot pools, steam and cold plunges with the river moving under your feet.

  3. Patati Patata

    A tiny Plateau lunch counter that serves fries and poutine from a tight kitchen, standing room and a stool or two; the late-night refuel.

Saturday: Cycling the track

  1. Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve

    The Formula One track is open to cyclists and runners when there is no race; ride the 4.3 km loop and sprint the Senna straight.

  2. Biosphère

    Buckminster Fuller's geodesic dome of the US pavilion at Expo 67, now an environment museum; climb the escalators to the top for the view.

  3. Satay Brothers

    Two brothers cooking their Singaporean mother's laksa and pork-belly buns in a room of red lanterns; good for a plate of noodles after a long ride.

Sunday: Rapids and a leaning tower

  1. Lachine Rapids rafting

    A jet-boat or raft run through the Lachine Rapids, the biggest whitewater on the St Lawrence; wear a wet suit and expect to be soaked.

  2. Montreal Tower observatory

    The funicular at the Olympic Stadium climbs the world's tallest inclined tower, 165 metres, for a view over the island on a clear day.

  3. Schwartz's

    Smoked meat cured for ten days and steamed to order since 1928, served medium-fat on rye with a pickle; the line moves faster than it looks.

Monday: Mount Royal dawn run

  1. Mount Royal summit run

    Olmsted's carriage path climbs in long switchbacks to the Kondiaronk Belvedere; the city turns out in joggers at this hour, and the view is yours.

  2. Biodôme

    The old Olympic velodrome turned into five ecosystems under one roof; walk from tropical forest to Arctic shore in an hour.

  3. Café Olimpico

    An Italian espresso bar from 1970 with football on the television; the macchiato and a panino are the day's reward.

Other ways to see Montreal