Montreal for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
An island city that argues with winter in two languages.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: Steps, steam and poutine
- Escalier Peel climb
Take the steps from Peel up the mountain's southern flank to the Chalet lookout; repeat twice if you want the legs to complain.
- Bota Bota spa
A spa on a converted ferry in the Old Port: hot pools, steam and cold plunges with the river moving under your feet.
- Patati Patata
A tiny Plateau lunch counter that serves fries and poutine from a tight kitchen, standing room and a stool or two; the late-night refuel.
Saturday: Cycling the track
- Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve
The Formula One track is open to cyclists and runners when there is no race; ride the 4.3 km loop and sprint the Senna straight.
- Biosphère
Buckminster Fuller's geodesic dome of the US pavilion at Expo 67, now an environment museum; climb the escalators to the top for the view.
- Satay Brothers
Two brothers cooking their Singaporean mother's laksa and pork-belly buns in a room of red lanterns; good for a plate of noodles after a long ride.
Sunday: Rapids and a leaning tower
- Lachine Rapids rafting
A jet-boat or raft run through the Lachine Rapids, the biggest whitewater on the St Lawrence; wear a wet suit and expect to be soaked.
- Montreal Tower observatory
The funicular at the Olympic Stadium climbs the world's tallest inclined tower, 165 metres, for a view over the island on a clear day.
- Schwartz's
Smoked meat cured for ten days and steamed to order since 1928, served medium-fat on rye with a pickle; the line moves faster than it looks.
Monday: Mount Royal dawn run
- Mount Royal summit run
Olmsted's carriage path climbs in long switchbacks to the Kondiaronk Belvedere; the city turns out in joggers at this hour, and the view is yours.
- Biodôme
The old Olympic velodrome turned into five ecosystems under one roof; walk from tropical forest to Arctic shore in an hour.
- Café Olimpico
An Italian espresso bar from 1970 with football on the television; the macchiato and a panino are the day's reward.