Seville for The Curious Wanderers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The old Santa Ana kilns kept in situ beneath a glass floor, with the moulds and glaze pots of the potters who tiled the city.

The last working ceramic house on the old potters' street; ask to see the back room where the tiles are still hand-painted.

Dinner in the Triana room that has fed the potters' street since 1880, tiles to the ceiling, cola de toro and the house vermouth from the barrel.

The vaulted rainwater cistern under the Patio del Crucero, the Alcázar's one truly subterranean room.

Sombrerería Maquedano has blocked hats since 1896, Casa Rubio makes fans, Foronda embroiders the mantones de Manila; none is a museum.

A dim Argentine-run wine bar by the Murillo gardens, foie with figs and a long list of oddities by the glass.

Coin, stamp and print dealers under the arcade of a semicircular square hidden behind the cathedral.

The foundations of the Inquisition's seat in Seville, excavated under the market floor, with the names of the condemned.

Open since 1670, bill chalked on the bar, spinach with chickpeas and bacalao in the back room under the hams.

A fifteenth-century enclosed convent whose nuns show a few rooms of their museum and sell marmalade through a hatch.

Valdés Leal's In ictu oculi and Finis gloriae mundi, a bishop rotting in his vestments, painted to order for Miguel de Mañara.

A bodega claiming 1682 on its sign, cazón en adobo and a fino at the bar before the train or the bus.