Seville for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Shade, tiled benches and the Alcázar wall; sit until the swifts come out and the day's only decision is where to eat.

A sunken patio and a painted church, visited at the pace of the fountain; the quietest ticket in Santa Cruz.

A patio restaurant in a renovated house off the cathedral, Andalusian plates done lightly, an early table and an early night.

A long breakfast at the marble counter of the 1885 pastry shop, a second coffee, and the Sierpes crowd watched from a stool.

Ninety minutes of hot, warm and cold pools under candlelight in a sixteenth-century house; a massage adds twenty and takes the afternoon.

A long lunch of the old school: ortiguillas, a seafood rice, a pudding trolley, waiters who have been there since the seventies.

One sight for the day: the Medinaceli palace of azulejo and Roman busts, walked slowly, with a bench in the garden at the end.

Lunch in the 1909 palace of the hospitality school, a set menu served in the patio by students who are trying very hard.

Sunset on the Triana bank with a glass, the cathedral turning gold across the river; then a taxi and bed.

Breakfast at the 1926 pastry shop on Sierpes, a tostada and a milhojas, nobody hurrying anyone.

The half-moon of brick and tile, walked once around and sat in front of; the rowing boats are for other people.

Wine drawn from the tinajas since 1850, a chicharrón on paper and a last fino at the bar before the airport bus.