Seville for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Orange trees, bitter sweets, and a long slow dusk.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Up the ramps
- The Giralda
Thirty-five ramps, not stairs, built so the muezzin could ride up, with the bells and the whole plain opening at the top.
- Walk the river to the Puente de Triana
Cross Isabel II's iron bridge at sunset and come back along Betis with the rowing eights under you.
- Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas
Stand at the bar, point at montaditos, let them chalk the tally on the counter in front of you.
Saturday: River and ruins
- Ride the river to the Parque del Alamillo
Ten flat kilometres of bike path from Triana past the Expo island, back before the heat.
- Itálica
Hadrian's home town half an hour away on bus M-170: a 25,000-seat amphitheatre and mosaic floors you can walk around almost alone.
- Eslava
No bookings at the bar, so arrive at opening and take the counter for the slow-cooked egg on boletus cake.
Sunday: Córdoba and back
- Train to Córdoba
Forty-five minutes on the AVE to the Mezquita's forest of striped arches, the patios and the Roman bridge, back by late afternoon.
- La Carbonería
A former coal yard with a courtyard, free flamenco most nights and a crowd of students who will talk to anyone.
- Las Golondrinas
A counter seat in a tiled Triana bar, grilled mushrooms with aioli and a beer, out in ten minutes if you like.
Monday: Last laps
- Torre del Oro at opening
The thirteenth-century river tower, up the spiral to the terrace while the rowers are still on the water.
- Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza
The tour of the ring, the chapel and the infirmary, whatever you think of what happens in the sand.
- La Brunilda
Join the queue at opening for a counter seat and a tapa or two before the airport bus from Plaza de Armas.