All cities · Seville

Seville for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Orange trees, bitter sweets, and a long slow dusk.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: River and rooftop

  1. Cycle the Guadalquivir to the Alamillo

    Hire a bike in Triana and ride the flat river path past the Expo island to Calatrava's bridge and back, twenty kilometres before dark.

  2. Metropol Parasol rooftop

    The walkway on top of the timber mushrooms at sunset, lattice shadows on the plaza; the lift up, the stairs down.

  3. Casa Ricardo

    Recovery croquetas and a solomillo al whisky at the counter of a Macarena bar hung with pictures of the Virgin and hams.

Saturday: The iron hill

  1. Cerro del Hierro

    An hour and a half north: a walk through the limestone pinnacles of an old iron mine, or the via ferrata bolted onto them.

  2. Hammam Aire de Sevilla

    Hot, warm and cold pools under a sixteenth-century roof to put the legs back; the cold one is the point.

  3. La Azotea

    Market cooking on plates meant for sharing, tuna tartare and pork cheeks, at a table you booked from the car.

Sunday: Up on the cathedral

  1. Cathedral rooftops tour

    Ninety minutes on the cathedral's roofs and buttresses, up spiral stairs behind a guide, level with the Giralda's shoulder; book days ahead.

  2. Bar Alfalfa

    Salmorejo and a bruschetta at the corner bar on the Alfalfa, standing, then a siesta that is earned.

  3. Parque del Alamillo

    Run the loops of the Alamillo park, flat and shaded, where the city's runners meet on Sunday evenings once the heat drops.

Monday: Ramps before the plane

  1. Run the Parque de María Luisa

    Five kilometres of avenues and fountains before the gardeners, finishing on the half-moon of the Plaza de España.

  2. The Giralda

    Thirty-five ramps, not stairs, built so the muezzin could ride up; take them at a jog and the bells are yours.

  3. Bodeguita Antonio Romero

    A piripi, pork loin with bacon and cheese on a roll, and a beer at the counter by the bullring before the airport bus from Plaza de Armas.

Other ways to see Seville