Seville for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Orange trees, bitter sweets, and a long slow dusk.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: River and rooftop
- Cycle the Guadalquivir to the Alamillo
Hire a bike in Triana and ride the flat river path past the Expo island to Calatrava's bridge and back, twenty kilometres before dark.
- Metropol Parasol rooftop
The walkway on top of the timber mushrooms at sunset, lattice shadows on the plaza; the lift up, the stairs down.
- Casa Ricardo
Recovery croquetas and a solomillo al whisky at the counter of a Macarena bar hung with pictures of the Virgin and hams.
Saturday: The iron hill
- Cerro del Hierro
An hour and a half north: a walk through the limestone pinnacles of an old iron mine, or the via ferrata bolted onto them.
- Hammam Aire de Sevilla
Hot, warm and cold pools under a sixteenth-century roof to put the legs back; the cold one is the point.
- La Azotea
Market cooking on plates meant for sharing, tuna tartare and pork cheeks, at a table you booked from the car.
Sunday: Up on the cathedral
- Cathedral rooftops tour
Ninety minutes on the cathedral's roofs and buttresses, up spiral stairs behind a guide, level with the Giralda's shoulder; book days ahead.
- Bar Alfalfa
Salmorejo and a bruschetta at the corner bar on the Alfalfa, standing, then a siesta that is earned.
- Parque del Alamillo
Run the loops of the Alamillo park, flat and shaded, where the city's runners meet on Sunday evenings once the heat drops.
Monday: Ramps before the plane
- Run the Parque de María Luisa
Five kilometres of avenues and fountains before the gardeners, finishing on the half-moon of the Plaza de España.
- The Giralda
Thirty-five ramps, not stairs, built so the muezzin could ride up; take them at a jog and the bells are yours.
- Bodeguita Antonio Romero
A piripi, pork loin with bacon and cheese on a roll, and a beer at the counter by the bullring before the airport bus from Plaza de Armas.