Seville for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Orange trees, bitter sweets, and a long slow dusk.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: The coal yard
- Calle Betis
A caña on the Triana riverbank at sunset facing the Torre del Oro, the warm-up for a night that starts at ten.
- Taberna Coloniales
Dinner at ten, which is when the kitchen gets going: solomillo al whisky and a long list, the queue outside the proof.
- La Carbonería
Free flamenco in the old coal yard from eleven, a courtyard of students and a cheap beer; the second show is the looser one.
Saturday: The Alameda
- Mercado Lonja del Barranco
Noon at the iron fish exchange by the Triana bridge: a tortilla, a vermouth and the river doing the moving.
- Alameda de Hércules
The long square of bars and kiosks where Saturday night assembles from six; claim a terrace table and keep it.
- Sala Malandar
Live bands and DJs in a Torneo warehouse until five; check the bill, pay at the door, the Alameda is five minutes back.
Sunday: Tablao, then the theatre
- Bar Alfalfa
A late plate at the Alfalfa corner bar, bruschetta and salmorejo, where the square wakes up on a Sunday.
- Casa de la Memoria
A hundred seats, no amplification, the nine o'clock show; by half ten you are out and the night can begin properly.
- Antique Theatro
The Cartuja club in a theatre built for Expo 92, house and reggaeton until six; a taxi there, and the door is firm about trainers.
Monday: Churros on the way home
- Bar El Comercio
Churros and chocolate at the 1904 counter for anyone still awake, the official breakfast of the walk home.
- Metropol Parasol
The lattice walk, the one sight of the day, with shade and a drink at the top bar before the heat.
- Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas
A last stack of montaditos at the bar, the tally chalked in front of you, then the airport bus from Plaza de Armas.