Tokyo for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Paper lanterns, concrete, and the long slow river.
The city after dark. Days start at noon, the real plan starts at nine: a concert, a cocktail bar with a door policy, a club worth the queue, and breakfast on the way home.
Friday: Neon and the first drink
- Omoide Yokochō
The alley of tiny yakitori bars by the tracks. Start with skewers and a beer, and keep moving to the next stall.
- Shinjuku Pit Inn
The jazz club that has been in the basement since 1965. Pay the cover and listen to the second set with a drink.
- Golden Gai
Six alleys of tiny bars, each seating six to eight. Pick one with an English sign, pay the cover and stay for one drink.
Saturday: Cocktails and a club
- Shimokitazawa
Vintage shops and small cafés in the late-day sun. A late start, a coffee and a long wander before the night.
- Blue Note Tokyo
The city's best-known jazz club, with two sets each night. Book the second set and choose a table at the side.
- WOMB
A four-floor club with a famous sound system, open until early morning. Bring ID and go after one; the main floor fills later.
Sunday: Whisky and the last train
- Shibuya Crossing and Center Gai
The busiest crossing in the world, and the streets behind full of arcades. Watch from the Starbucks window, then walk up.
- Bar Benfiddich
A bar of cocktails made from fresh herbs and home-distilled spirits, on the ninth floor. Book a seat at the counter and let the barman choose.
- Ichiran Shibuya
A bowl of ramen at midnight, in a solo booth with a paper screen. Order extra firm noodles and extra garlic.
Monday: Dawn sushi
- Sushi Zanmai Tsukiji Honten
A 24-hour sushi counter, with big pieces of tuna and a lively early crowd. Order the set and a pot of tea.
- Hama-rikyu Gardens
A seaside garden with a tea house on an island pond. A calm place to sit for an hour after a long night.
- Tsukiji Hongan-ji
A 1934 Buddhist temple in an Indian style, with a pipe organ for Sunday services. Sit inside in the cool for ten minutes.