Tokyo for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Tokyo's oldest temple, founded in 645, with the great red lantern at the gate. Go late, when the tour groups thin and the lanterns are lit.

The Kengo Kuma tower opposite the gate, with a free observation terrace on the 8th floor. Look down over the temple roofs and the Skytree.

Tempura since 1887, a rice bowl of crisp prawns in dark sesame oil. Queue by six, and order the tendon at the counter.

The temple where the 47 rōnin are buried, still thick with incense. Pay a small fee for the museum of their belongings.

The oldest and largest museum in Japan, with samurai armour and ukiyo-e. Give the Honkan's Japanese galleries two hours and skip the rest.

A 1930 house serving ankō, monkfish hotpot, in a room of old beams. The monkfish season starts in autumn; ask for the nabe.

The former Edo Castle's inner circle, with the stone walls and the base of the keep. Walk the paths and read the old gate names.

A single-act ticket, sold on the day, lets you see kabuki without a whole programme. English audio guides are available.

A 1884 soba shop in a wooden building, with cold noodles and a small pot of tea. Order the tempura soba, and a flask of sake.

Tatsuno Kingo's red-brick station of 1914, restored after the war. Stand in the north dome hall under the zodiac reliefs.

A 1896 mansion built for the Mitsubishi family, with a Western house and Japanese rooms. Take tea on the veranda looking over the lawn.

An eel restaurant by Shinobazu Pond, in a wooden building since 1863. Order the unaju lunch box and a pot of tea.