Tokyo for The Romantics: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Paper lanterns, concrete, and the long slow river.
The weekend for two. Terraces at dusk, a table booked weeks ago, a walk home the long way. Nothing before ten, nothing rushed, one extravagance you will talk about for years.
Friday: Sunset over the old town
- Yanaka Cemetery
Cherry trees and a hushed lane of old graves, with the last shogun buried at the far end. Walk out the south gate to the sunset steps.
- Yūyake Dandan
The Sunset Steps above Yanaka Ginza, where the street's cats and shoppers all pause for the light. Pick up a croquette from the shops below.
- Hantei
Skewers of seasonal vegetables and meat, fried in a 1927 wooden house where you sit on the tatami. Book the early or late sitting.
Saturday: Gardens and a view from above
- Nezu Museum garden
A Kengo Kuma museum of old Japanese art and a hillside garden of tea houses and stone lanterns. Walk the path slowly and stop for matcha.
- Shibuya Sky
The rooftop observation deck on Shibuya Scramble Square. Book the sunset slot a week ahead and watch the crossing turn to lights.
- New York Grill
The 52nd-floor restaurant of the Park Hyatt, from Lost in Translation. Order the Wagyu, and a window table with the city below. Reserve well ahead.
Sunday: Roses and an old jazz room
- Kyū-Furukawa Gardens
A European-style mansion and rose garden by a Japanese garden below. Best when the roses are out; a quiet start to Sunday.
- Meikyoku Kissa Lion
A classical-music coffee house of 1926 with a vast speaker and a dim room. Order a coffee and sit in silence for an hour.
- Bird Land Ginza
A Michelin-starred yakitori counter in a basement, with chicken cooked over charcoal one skewer at a time. Book the 19:00 sitting for two seats.
Monday: A mansion and the stone lanes
- Kyū-Iwasaki-tei Gardens
A mansion of 1896 built for the Mitsubishi family, with a Western house and Japanese rooms. Take tea on the veranda looking over the lawn.
- Kagurazaka stone lanes
Old geisha alleys of black fences and hidden restaurants, a short walk from the station. Find Kakurenbo Yokochō and follow the paving stones.
- Kinozen
A wagashi sweet shop and tearoom since 1868, with a hot red bean soup and matcha with sweets. Order the anmitsu and sit upstairs.