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Tokyo for The Romantics: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Paper lanterns, concrete, and the long slow river.

The weekend for two. Terraces at dusk, a table booked weeks ago, a walk home the long way. Nothing before ten, nothing rushed, one extravagance you will talk about for years.

Friday: Sunset over the old town

  1. Yanaka Cemetery

    Cherry trees and a hushed lane of old graves, with the last shogun buried at the far end. Walk out the south gate to the sunset steps.

  2. Yūyake Dandan

    The Sunset Steps above Yanaka Ginza, where the street's cats and shoppers all pause for the light. Pick up a croquette from the shops below.

  3. Hantei

    Skewers of seasonal vegetables and meat, fried in a 1927 wooden house where you sit on the tatami. Book the early or late sitting.

Saturday: Gardens and a view from above

  1. Nezu Museum garden

    A Kengo Kuma museum of old Japanese art and a hillside garden of tea houses and stone lanterns. Walk the path slowly and stop for matcha.

  2. Shibuya Sky

    The rooftop observation deck on Shibuya Scramble Square. Book the sunset slot a week ahead and watch the crossing turn to lights.

  3. New York Grill

    The 52nd-floor restaurant of the Park Hyatt, from Lost in Translation. Order the Wagyu, and a window table with the city below. Reserve well ahead.

Sunday: Roses and an old jazz room

  1. Kyū-Furukawa Gardens

    A European-style mansion and rose garden by a Japanese garden below. Best when the roses are out; a quiet start to Sunday.

  2. Meikyoku Kissa Lion

    A classical-music coffee house of 1926 with a vast speaker and a dim room. Order a coffee and sit in silence for an hour.

  3. Bird Land Ginza

    A Michelin-starred yakitori counter in a basement, with chicken cooked over charcoal one skewer at a time. Book the 19:00 sitting for two seats.

Monday: A mansion and the stone lanes

  1. Kyū-Iwasaki-tei Gardens

    A mansion of 1896 built for the Mitsubishi family, with a Western house and Japanese rooms. Take tea on the veranda looking over the lawn.

  2. Kagurazaka stone lanes

    Old geisha alleys of black fences and hidden restaurants, a short walk from the station. Find Kakurenbo Yokochō and follow the paving stones.

  3. Kinozen

    A wagashi sweet shop and tearoom since 1868, with a hot red bean soup and matcha with sweets. Order the anmitsu and sit upstairs.

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