Tokyo for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Paper lanterns, concrete, and the long slow river.
You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.
Friday: The palace loop
- Imperial Palace run
The five-kilometre loop around the Imperial Palace moat, one-way and well lit. Rent a locker at a runners' station nearby and run at sunset.
- Public bath at Spa LaQua
A hot-spring spa in Tokyo Dome City, with several baths and a sauna. A good recovery after the run, and open late.
- Fuunji
The best tsukemen in Tokyo, thick noodles dipped in a fish broth. Queue early, order large and ask for the soup stock to finish.
Saturday: The mountain
- Mount Takao
An hour from Shinjuku by train, a 599 m mountain. Take Trail 6 along the stream and up the steps, with a view of Fuji at the top.
- Takahashiya soba
A soba shop by the station, with cold noodles and tempura. Order the yamakake soba, with grated mountain yam, after the climb.
- Keio Takaosan Onsen Gokurakuyu
A hot-spring bath beside the station, with outdoor tubs and a shuttle to the train. Soak your legs for an hour before heading back.
Sunday: The ridge and the great Buddha
- Daibutsu hiking course
A forest ridge walk from Kita-Kamakura to the Great Buddha, with roots and steps for an hour. Start early before the trail fills.
- Kōtoku-in Great Buddha
The 13th-century bronze Buddha, 11 metres tall and open to the air. Pay the extra few yen to climb inside the hollow statue.
- Tobiccho
A bowl of shirasu whitebait on rice on the lane up to the island, caught in Sagami Bay. Eat it near the bridge, then climb to the lighthouse.
Monday: First light
- Meiji Jingū run
A forest run on the gravel paths to the shrine at opening, among the sake barrels. Quiet at dawn, and the park is close.
- Tokyo Skytree
The tallest tower in Japan at 634 m. Take the lift to the upper deck for a view of the whole Kantō plain, and Fuji on a clear day.
- Ichiran Shibuya
Ramen in a solo booth, the original of the chain and open all night. Order a rich pork broth and extra noodles, and be out in twenty minutes.