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Tokyo for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Paper lanterns, concrete, and the long slow river.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: The palace loop

  1. Imperial Palace run

    The five-kilometre loop around the Imperial Palace moat, one-way and well lit. Rent a locker at a runners' station nearby and run at sunset.

  2. Public bath at Spa LaQua

    A hot-spring spa in Tokyo Dome City, with several baths and a sauna. A good recovery after the run, and open late.

  3. Fuunji

    The best tsukemen in Tokyo, thick noodles dipped in a fish broth. Queue early, order large and ask for the soup stock to finish.

Saturday: The mountain

  1. Mount Takao

    An hour from Shinjuku by train, a 599 m mountain. Take Trail 6 along the stream and up the steps, with a view of Fuji at the top.

  2. Takahashiya soba

    A soba shop by the station, with cold noodles and tempura. Order the yamakake soba, with grated mountain yam, after the climb.

  3. Keio Takaosan Onsen Gokurakuyu

    A hot-spring bath beside the station, with outdoor tubs and a shuttle to the train. Soak your legs for an hour before heading back.

Sunday: The ridge and the great Buddha

  1. Daibutsu hiking course

    A forest ridge walk from Kita-Kamakura to the Great Buddha, with roots and steps for an hour. Start early before the trail fills.

  2. Kōtoku-in Great Buddha

    The 13th-century bronze Buddha, 11 metres tall and open to the air. Pay the extra few yen to climb inside the hollow statue.

  3. Tobiccho

    A bowl of shirasu whitebait on rice on the lane up to the island, caught in Sagami Bay. Eat it near the bridge, then climb to the lighthouse.

Monday: First light

  1. Meiji Jingū run

    A forest run on the gravel paths to the shrine at opening, among the sake barrels. Quiet at dawn, and the park is close.

  2. Tokyo Skytree

    The tallest tower in Japan at 634 m. Take the lift to the upper deck for a view of the whole Kantō plain, and Fuji on a clear day.

  3. Ichiran Shibuya

    Ramen in a solo booth, the original of the chain and open all night. Order a rich pork broth and extra noodles, and be out in twenty minutes.

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