Tokyo for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Paper lanterns, concrete, and the long slow river.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: Up the river
- Sumida River cruise
Take a water bus from Asakusa down to Hinode Pier, past the bridges. Sit on the upper deck and watch the lights on the shore.
- Komparu-yu
A 1863 bathhouse in Ginza with a tiled bath and a view of an old wall. Pay at the counter and bring your own towel.
- Ginza Bairin
A tonkatsu counter since 1927, with a menu of pork cutlets and sandwiches. Sit alone at the counter and order the hire katsu.
Saturday: Fish and the mountain
- Tsukiji Outer Market
Walk the market stalls at opening, with tamagoyaki, scallops and tuna skewers. Go solo and eat standing up.
- Mount Takao by train
An hour from Shinjuku by train, a 599 m mountain. Take Trail 6 up, and the cable car down.
- Takahashiya soba
A soba shop by the station, with cold noodles and tempura. A good end to a day on the hill.
Sunday: Kamakura on foot
- Daibutsu hiking course
A forest ridge walk from Kita-Kamakura to the Great Buddha. Go early and take the trail alone.
- Zeniarai Benten
A cave shrine where you wash your coins in a spring. It is quiet, odd and a good place for a solo rest.
- Tonki
A tonkatsu shop since 1939, with a long counter where one eats alone without a thought. Order the hire katsu.
Monday: First light and a last counter
- Meiji Jingū
The forest shrine at opening, among sake barrels and wooden gates. Quiet at this hour, with only the priests.
- Shimokitazawa
Vintage shops and small cafés, best visited early before the crowds. Rent a bike from a shop and ride the lanes.
- Uobei Shibuya Dogenzaka
A conveyor sushi counter where you order on a screen and the plate arrives by rail. Cheap, quick and made for one.