Edinburgh for The Family Explorers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Volcanic rock, black stone, and a city built in two minds.
A weekend the children will remember and the parents will survive. Short walks between real highlights, a boat or a tram instead of a museum queue, dinners at six, and room to run.
Friday: Mirrors and a dog
- Camera Obscura and World of Illusions
Five floors of mirror mazes, a vortex tunnel and the Victorian periscope on the roof that shows the whole city moving; stay until the rooftop show.
- Greyfriars Bobby statue
The terrier who sat on his master's grave for fourteen years, at the top of Candlemaker Row; the council asks you not to rub the nose.
- Civerinos
Pizza by the slice or whole, Italian soft drinks, and a room that does not mind a child under the table; two minutes from the Royal Mile.
Saturday: Penguins, then the pond
- Edinburgh Zoo
Bus 26 to the hillside zoo: the penguin parade when the birds feel like it, the koalas, and a steep site that justifies the nap afterwards.
- Inverleith Park
A big playground, a pond full of ducks and swans, and the city skyline across the grass; the Botanic Garden gate is across the road.
- Mamma Roma
A family trattoria at the top of Leith Walk with pasta the children recognise and a staff who bring the bread fast.
Sunday: The planet and the island
- Dynamic Earth
The tented science centre under Salisbury Crags: an earthquake floor, a real iceberg to touch, and a 4D rainforest; two hours before anyone flags.
- Maid of the Forth to Inchcolm Island
Train to Dalmeny, then the boat under the three bridges to an island with a medieval abbey, seals and puffins in season; check the sailing days.
- The Hawes Inn
The inn where Stevenson set the kidnapping in Kidnapped, now a pub with a children's menu and the rail bridge filling the window.
Monday: Museum and the Meadows
- National Museum of Scotland
Free, and built for children: the animal hall with the whale, the Imagine gallery for the small ones, and a roof terrace for the castle view.
- The Meadows
The playground by the tennis courts and a long flat lawn for running off the museum; the cherry trees are the reason people come in spring.
- Söderberg
Cardamom buns, a pizza slice for the children and a proper coffee, at the edge of the Meadows before the tram.