All cities · Edinburgh

Edinburgh for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Volcanic rock, black stone, and a city built in two minds.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: Straight up the volcano

  1. Arthur's Seat

    Drop the bags and go: up the steep path from Holyrood past the Crags to the 251 m summit, down the gentle side to Duddingston before the light goes.

  2. Alien Rock climbing wall

    A climbing wall built into a Victorian church by the harbour; a casual session needs a quick belay check, or stick to the bouldering room.

  3. Mother India's Café

    Tapas-sized curries so you can order the whole menu after a climb; the chilli garlic chicken and a Cobra, no booking for two.

Saturday: The Pentlands and the dry slope

  1. Scald Law from Flotterstone

    Bus 101 to the Flotterstone inn, then the ridge over Turnhouse and Carnethy to Scald Law at 579 m, with the Forth and the Highlands beyond on a clear day.

  2. Midlothian Snowsports Centre

    Europe's longest dry ski slope on the Pentland edge, with a chairlift and tubing; an hour's session with boots and skis, the city laid out below.

  3. The Scran & Scallie

    Tom Kitchin's gastropub for the recovery meal: steak pie, a plate of chips and a pint of Jarl, with the fire lit by autumn.

Sunday: East to the surf

  1. Train to Dunbar and Belhaven Bay

    Twenty-five minutes down the East Coast line, then two kilometres along the John Muir Way to the bay where he grew up; big sky, long beach.

  2. Surf lesson with Coast to Coast

    A two-hour lesson in a 5 mm wetsuit on a beach break that works at most tides; the North Sea is cold, the instructors are not.

  3. Roseleaf

    Teapot cocktails and big plates in a corner pub by the Water of Leith; the burger and the pie are the right end to a day in the sea.

Monday: River run and the old pool

  1. Dawn run along the Water of Leith

    Out along the river from Stockbridge to the Shore at Leith, six kilometres on gravel and cobbles, herons at the weirs, back by bus 36.

  2. Glenogle Swim Centre

    A 1900 Victorian pool with iron balconies and a 25 m tank; lanes for a hard half hour, then the sauna if your legs ask for it.

  3. Twelve Triangles

    Doughnuts and a filled sourdough roll at the counter of the city's best bakery, a ten-minute walk from the tram to the airport.

Other ways to see Edinburgh