Edinburgh for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

An Italian deli trading since 1934, salamis hanging over the counter and a wine wall at the back; buy the oatcakes and a wedge of Isle of Mull.

A ninety-minute flavour journey through the old Binns department store, three drams mixed to your own taste, and the rooftop bar for a fourth.

A chef-owned bistro in an old bank that butchers whole animals and bakes its own bread; the menu changes daily and the offal is the tell.

Be there when it opens under the castle rock: Arbroath smokies, Isle of Mull cheddar, the venison people from the Borders, and a bacon roll from Puddledub.

A half-day class in a Georgian townhouse, scones and Scottish fish or a game day depending on the week; you eat what you cooked at the end.

Tom Kitchin's starred warehouse on the dock, from nature to plate on a surprise menu; book weeks ahead and ask for the seasonal pig's head.

The Sunday market by the Water of Leith: oatcakes, haggis, Dumfries cheese and the French crêpe man; eat your way round before the queues build.

Haggis, neeps and tatties done with care rather than tartan, on a mash of your choosing, with a whisky sauce; the view is the castle.

Scotland's oldest independent bottler, since 1842; ask for a dram drawn straight from a cask behind the counter.

The bakery the city queues for; be in line before it opens for the croissant and the seasonal Danish, eaten on the wall outside.

The cheese shop on the curved street, Scottish and Irish wheels cut to order; a Lanark Blue and a Comté travel well in hand luggage.

Gelato made each morning by a Carpigiani-trained chocolatier, flavours chalked up daily; the hot chocolate float is the one before the airport.