All cities · Edinburgh

Edinburgh for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Volcanic rock, black stone, and a city built in two minds.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: Miralles and the plotter's close

  1. Scottish Parliament

    Enric Miralles's upturned boats and leaf-shaped debating chamber; the public galleries and the garden lobby are free when the chamber is not sitting.

  2. Deacon Brodie's Tavern

    A dram opposite the close where William Brodie, cabinetmaker and councillor by day and burglar by night, lived; Stevenson's Jekyll and Hyde started here.

  3. The Witchery by the Castle

    Dinner in a 1595 merchant's house at the castle gates, candlelit under painted ceilings and dark panelling; the right first night for old Edinburgh. Book well ahead.

Saturday: The rock and the Mile

  1. Edinburgh Castle

    Book the first slot: St Margaret's Chapel of about 1130, the Honours of Scotland in the Crown Room, and the one o'clock gun if you linger.

  2. Mercat Tours, Secrets of the Royal Mile

    A ninety-minute walk through the closes with a guide who knows which stories are true; the plague, the tenements, and the Union signed in a cellar.

  3. The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse

    Dinner under the restored dome of the old Bank of Scotland head office, named for Basil Spence.

Sunday: Three bridges, one firth

  1. The Forth Bridges

    Twenty minutes by train to Dalmeny, then walk the 1964 road bridge between the 1890 cantilever and the 2017 Queensferry Crossing.

  2. National Museum of Scotland, Benson and Forsyth wing

    Clashach sandstone and concrete from 1998 beside the Victorian iron hall, with a roof terrace that frames the castle.

  3. The Café Royal

    Oysters at the marble bar under Doulton tile murals of inventors, in a room unchanged since 1863; the stained glass shows sportsmen nobody remembers.

Monday: Under the Mound

  1. The Scottish Galleries at the National

    Hoskins Architects' 2023 extension dug into the Mound beneath Princes Street Gardens, with the Scottish collection lit from the park side.

  2. Gladstone's Land

    A 1617 merchant's tenement with painted ceilings and an arcaded front, the last of the kind that once lined the Mile; the top floor was the cheap one.

  3. Söderberg

    Cardamom buns and open sandwiches in Foster and Partners' glass infill beside the old Royal Infirmary pavilions.

Other ways to see Edinburgh