Edinburgh for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Volcanic rock, black stone, and a city built in two minds.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Miralles and the plotter's close
- Scottish Parliament
Enric Miralles's upturned boats and leaf-shaped debating chamber; the public galleries and the garden lobby are free when the chamber is not sitting.
- Deacon Brodie's Tavern
A dram opposite the close where William Brodie, cabinetmaker and councillor by day and burglar by night, lived; Stevenson's Jekyll and Hyde started here.
- The Witchery by the Castle
Dinner in a 1595 merchant's house at the castle gates, candlelit under painted ceilings and dark panelling; the right first night for old Edinburgh. Book well ahead.
Saturday: The rock and the Mile
- Edinburgh Castle
Book the first slot: St Margaret's Chapel of about 1130, the Honours of Scotland in the Crown Room, and the one o'clock gun if you linger.
- Mercat Tours, Secrets of the Royal Mile
A ninety-minute walk through the closes with a guide who knows which stories are true; the plague, the tenements, and the Union signed in a cellar.
- The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse
Dinner under the restored dome of the old Bank of Scotland head office, named for Basil Spence.
Sunday: Three bridges, one firth
- The Forth Bridges
Twenty minutes by train to Dalmeny, then walk the 1964 road bridge between the 1890 cantilever and the 2017 Queensferry Crossing.
- National Museum of Scotland, Benson and Forsyth wing
Clashach sandstone and concrete from 1998 beside the Victorian iron hall, with a roof terrace that frames the castle.
- The Café Royal
Oysters at the marble bar under Doulton tile murals of inventors, in a room unchanged since 1863; the stained glass shows sportsmen nobody remembers.
Monday: Under the Mound
- The Scottish Galleries at the National
Hoskins Architects' 2023 extension dug into the Mound beneath Princes Street Gardens, with the Scottish collection lit from the park side.
- Gladstone's Land
A 1617 merchant's tenement with painted ceilings and an arcaded front, the last of the kind that once lined the Mile; the top floor was the cheap one.
- Söderberg
Cardamom buns and open sandwiches in Foster and Partners' glass infill beside the old Royal Infirmary pavilions.