Edinburgh for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Volcanic rock, black stone, and a city built in two minds.
The weekend that is entirely yours. Counters instead of tables, a morning hike before anyone is up, a gallery at opening, and the freedom to change the plan at noon.
Friday: The river in the city
- Water of Leith Walkway
Drop into the gorge beneath Telford's bridge and follow the mill lade past the weirs to the Stockbridge colonies.
- Session at the Captain's Bar
A single-room pub with live traditional music most nights; stand at the bar and nobody will ask why you are alone.
- Ting Thai Caravan
Long shared tables and a counter facing the woks, pad kra pao and a cold Singha, no booking.
Saturday: Volcano and sea
- Arthur's Seat at dawn
Up from Dunsapie Loch on the quiet east side, 251 metres, with the Forth turning pink behind the Bass Rock.
- Portobello swim and the Turkish baths
A cold dip off the sands, then the 1901 Victorian Turkish baths at the Swim Centre to warm back through.
- Noto
A counter seat at the pass for small plates and a glass of something orange, with the kitchen two feet away.
Sunday: East by train
- Train to North Berwick
Thirty minutes down the coast; climb the Law for the whale jawbone and the gannets wheeling off the Bass Rock.
- Coast walk to Tantallon Castle
Three miles along the shore to the red curtain wall of the Douglases on the cliff edge, then the bus back.
- The Fishmarket
Fish and chips at the counter beside the fish shop it grew out of, with the harbour lights on the water.
Monday: Tide and towpath
- Cramond Island at low tide
Cross the mile-long causeway over the Drum Sands when the tide board allows, wartime pillboxes and all, and be back before it turns.
- Union Canal by bike
Hire a bike at the canal basin and ride the towpath out to the Slateford Aqueduct and back before lunch.
- Civerinos Slice
A stool at the window for a slice and a soda before the airport tram.