Edinburgh for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Volcanic rock, black stone, and a city built in two minds.
The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.
Friday: Gardens and a bookshop
- Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh
Seventy acres with a rock garden, a Chinese hillside and benches facing the castle across the city; free, and the gates close with the light.
- Golden Hare Books
A small, carefully stocked bookshop on the Stockbridge street of antique dealers; buy the one you will read in the bath.
- Dulse
Dean Banks's seafood room, oysters and a plate of langoustines, with a table that is yours for the evening and nobody turning it.
Saturday: Hydropool and a hidden garden
- One Spa at the Sheraton Grand
A thermal suite and a rooftop hydropool that steams in the open air with the castle in view; a day pass is the whole morning.
- Timberyard
A long lunch in a timber warehouse with a wood stove, Scottish produce in a few quiet courses and a cellar that leans to small growers.
- Dunbar's Close Garden
A seventeenth-century-style garden of clipped hedges hidden off the Royal Mile, with benches and almost nobody; the city noise does not reach it.
Sunday: Sea air, then the baths
- Portobello Promenade
Two miles of Victorian seafront with cafés and sand; walk it slowly to the Joppa end and back, coffee from the kiosk on the way.
- Portobello Swim Centre Turkish baths
Three hot rooms, a plunge pool and a marble slab under Victorian tiles from 1901; the Sunday session runs for hours and nobody talks.
- The Little Chartroom
A chef-run room in a former shop with Scottish produce on short menus, an early table and an early night.
Monday: Two galleries, one lawn
- Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, Modern One
Charles Jencks's Landform of grass terraces and pools on the lawn, and the Water of Leith at the bottom of the garden; sit before going in.
- Modern Two, Paolozzi's studio
Eduardo Paolozzi's studio moved across the road in plaster and clutter, and the three-storey Vulcan in the hall; free and quiet on Mondays.
- Café Modern Two
Soup, a sandwich and a slice of cake in the gallery's café, with the garden to look at and a taxi to the airport from the door.