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Edinburgh for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Volcanic rock, black stone, and a city built in two minds.

The weekend as rest. A hotel worth staying in, a hammam or a thermal bath, one unhurried sight each day, lunches that run into the afternoon, and early nights.

Friday: Gardens and a bookshop

  1. Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh

    Seventy acres with a rock garden, a Chinese hillside and benches facing the castle across the city; free, and the gates close with the light.

  2. Golden Hare Books

    A small, carefully stocked bookshop on the Stockbridge street of antique dealers; buy the one you will read in the bath.

  3. Dulse

    Dean Banks's seafood room, oysters and a plate of langoustines, with a table that is yours for the evening and nobody turning it.

Saturday: Hydropool and a hidden garden

  1. One Spa at the Sheraton Grand

    A thermal suite and a rooftop hydropool that steams in the open air with the castle in view; a day pass is the whole morning.

  2. Timberyard

    A long lunch in a timber warehouse with a wood stove, Scottish produce in a few quiet courses and a cellar that leans to small growers.

  3. Dunbar's Close Garden

    A seventeenth-century-style garden of clipped hedges hidden off the Royal Mile, with benches and almost nobody; the city noise does not reach it.

Sunday: Sea air, then the baths

  1. Portobello Promenade

    Two miles of Victorian seafront with cafés and sand; walk it slowly to the Joppa end and back, coffee from the kiosk on the way.

  2. Portobello Swim Centre Turkish baths

    Three hot rooms, a plunge pool and a marble slab under Victorian tiles from 1901; the Sunday session runs for hours and nobody talks.

  3. The Little Chartroom

    A chef-run room in a former shop with Scottish produce on short menus, an early table and an early night.

Monday: Two galleries, one lawn

  1. Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, Modern One

    Charles Jencks's Landform of grass terraces and pools on the lawn, and the Water of Leith at the bottom of the garden; sit before going in.

  2. Modern Two, Paolozzi's studio

    Eduardo Paolozzi's studio moved across the road in plaster and clutter, and the three-storey Vulcan in the hall; free and quiet on Mondays.

  3. Café Modern Two

    Soup, a sandwich and a slice of cake in the gallery's café, with the garden to look at and a taxi to the airport from the door.

Other ways to see Edinburgh