Lisbon for The Curious Wanderers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A 1930 tin shop where the women still wrap each can of sardines in printed paper and tie it with string.

A tile works running since 1741; visit by appointment and watch clay pressed, glazed and painted by hand, then fired in the old kiln.

A tasca taken over by young cooks who kept the tiles and the prices, join the queue for pica-pau and the house wine.

The Tuesday-and-Saturday flea market behind the pantheon; go for the azulejo dealers and the old Bordallo plates before the stalls thin.

Carvalho Monteiro's masonic estate: descend the inverted tower's nine spiralling levels and leave through a tunnel into the grotto.

A whitewashed room with the week's producers chalked on the wall, Alentejo vegetables and fish from Peniche, natural wine by the glass.

The Espírito Santo foundation's palace of furniture and silver, with eighteen craft workshops of bookbinders, gilders and cabinetmakers behind it.

Behind a plain Baixa doorway a neo-Moorish courtyard with a fountain and tiled rooms, a regional club that lets you wander.

Tiger prawns, clams and a prego to finish, eaten elbow to elbow with cooks on their night off.

The gothic nave left roofless since 1755 as a monument to the earthquake, two mummies in the apse museum.

Alembics, a Chinese apothecary, a reconstructed pharmacy from Macau and five thousand years of what people swallowed to live.

Stand at the counter for a bifana and a glass of beer where Bourdain ate, then down the hill to the airport bus.