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Lisbon for The Family Explorers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Seven hills, one white light, and the Tagus below.

A weekend the children will remember and the parents will survive. Short walks between real highlights, a boat or a tram instead of a museum queue, dinners at six, and room to run.

Friday: Across the water

  1. Ferry to Cacilhas

    Ten minutes across the Tagus on the orange ferry, the big thing for a tired arrival afternoon; the open deck is the place to stand.

  2. Cervejaria Farol

    Dinner at six by the ferry pier, grilled sardines and chips, and the ferry back across the water is the dessert.

  3. Praça do Comércio

    Back across the water, the square is wide, flat and lit, room to run while the parents sit on the steps to the river.

Saturday: Fish and the cable car

  1. Oceanário de Lisboa

    The big tank with sunfish and sharks, otters, and the sea-garden paths; two hours, and the children set the pace.

  2. Telecabine Lisboa

    The cable car along the river from the Oceanário to the Vasco da Gama tower, eight minutes of dangling; the nap starts after.

  3. Time Out Market

    Dinner at six before the crowd: a counter for everyone's choice under the iron roof, bench seats, no waiting for a waiter.

Sunday: Belém

  1. Padrão dos Descobrimentos

    The lift to the top of the 1960 monument for the compass-rose map below and the river; then the pastries down the road.

  2. Pastéis de Belém

    The original custard tarts with cinnamon and icing sugar; the tiled back rooms seat a family faster than the takeaway queue.

  3. Museu de Marinha

    Royal barges, model ships and a seaplane in the west wing of the monastery; open until six and never crowded.

  4. Adega de Belém

    Dinner at six a few doors from the tart shop, in a traditional adega with plain Portuguese dishes for the family and arroz doce to finish.

Monday: Castle and story

  1. Castelo de São Jorge

    Ramparts to run along with a hand held, peacocks underfoot and the camera obscura at eleven; open on Mondays when museums are not.

  2. Lisboa Story Centre

    An hour of the earthquake told with a 4D room and a model of the old city; dark, loud and short, which is right.

  3. Confeitaria Nacional

    Lunch upstairs at the 1829 pastry shop, toasties and a slice of bolo rei, two minutes from Rossio metro to the airport line.

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