Lisbon for The Family Explorers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Seven hills, one white light, and the Tagus below.
A weekend the children will remember and the parents will survive. Short walks between real highlights, a boat or a tram instead of a museum queue, dinners at six, and room to run.
Friday: Across the water
- Ferry to Cacilhas
Ten minutes across the Tagus on the orange ferry, the big thing for a tired arrival afternoon; the open deck is the place to stand.
- Cervejaria Farol
Dinner at six by the ferry pier, grilled sardines and chips, and the ferry back across the water is the dessert.
- Praça do Comércio
Back across the water, the square is wide, flat and lit, room to run while the parents sit on the steps to the river.
Saturday: Fish and the cable car
- Oceanário de Lisboa
The big tank with sunfish and sharks, otters, and the sea-garden paths; two hours, and the children set the pace.
- Telecabine Lisboa
The cable car along the river from the Oceanário to the Vasco da Gama tower, eight minutes of dangling; the nap starts after.
- Time Out Market
Dinner at six before the crowd: a counter for everyone's choice under the iron roof, bench seats, no waiting for a waiter.
Sunday: Belém
- Padrão dos Descobrimentos
The lift to the top of the 1960 monument for the compass-rose map below and the river; then the pastries down the road.
- Pastéis de Belém
The original custard tarts with cinnamon and icing sugar; the tiled back rooms seat a family faster than the takeaway queue.
- Museu de Marinha
Royal barges, model ships and a seaplane in the west wing of the monastery; open until six and never crowded.
- Adega de Belém
Dinner at six a few doors from the tart shop, in a traditional adega with plain Portuguese dishes for the family and arroz doce to finish.
Monday: Castle and story
- Castelo de São Jorge
Ramparts to run along with a hand held, peacocks underfoot and the camera obscura at eleven; open on Mondays when museums are not.
- Lisboa Story Centre
An hour of the earthquake told with a 4D room and a model of the old city; dark, loud and short, which is right.
- Confeitaria Nacional
Lunch upstairs at the 1829 pastry shop, toasties and a slice of bolo rei, two minutes from Rossio metro to the airport line.