Lisbon for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Seven hills, one white light, and the Tagus below.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: Belém across the centuries
- Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
Manueline stone rope and coral carved in 1501 on pepper money; the cloister is the ticket worth buying, the church is free until half six.
- MAAT
Amanda Levete's low tiled wave beside the old power station; walk its roof as the ceramic skin catches the last river light.
- Darwin's Café
Eat inside Charles Correa's research centre, two curved stone volumes framing an open-air amphitheatre on the water.
Saturday: Castle to the Gulbenkian
- Castelo de São Jorge
Moorish walls, the dig of the Iron Age settlement and the periscope camera obscura; go at opening and read the hill in order.
- Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian
The 1969 complex is the city's best modernism, long concrete galleries sunk into a garden; Kengo Kuma's 2024 extension adds a canopied façade.
- EPUR
Vincent Farges's tasting menu in a stripped-back room over the rooftops of Chiado, one plate at a time, no music.
Sunday: The rebuilt city
- Praça do Comércio and the Baixa grid
Pombal's grid of 1758, earthquake-proofed with timber cages inside the walls; stand under the arch and read the plan up Rua Augusta.
- Siza's Chiado reconstruction
After the 1988 fire Siza rebuilt the block behind the old façades; find the terraces that stitch the Baixa to the Carmo convent.
- Ponto Final
A terrace on the Almada shore opposite Lisbon, reached by the Cais do Sodré ferry, with the whole waterfront lit across the Tagus. Check the last ferry back.
Monday: Under the bank, and the plotters' café
- Núcleo Arqueológico da Rua dos Correeiros
Under a bank, Roman fish-salting tanks, a Moorish house and Pombal's timber foundations, shown by a guide in an hour; book, it is free.
- Metro stations
Tomás Taveira's coloured concrete cathedral at Olaias and the Alice-in-Wonderland rabbits at Cais do Sodré; ride between them.
- Martinho da Arcada
The 1782 café under the arcades where Pessoa kept a table and the 1910 republicans their meetings; lunch, then the metro from Terreiro do Paço.