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Lisbon for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Seven hills, one white light, and the Tagus below.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: Belém across the centuries

  1. Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

    Manueline stone rope and coral carved in 1501 on pepper money; the cloister is the ticket worth buying, the church is free until half six.

  2. MAAT

    Amanda Levete's low tiled wave beside the old power station; walk its roof as the ceramic skin catches the last river light.

  3. Darwin's Café

    Eat inside Charles Correa's research centre, two curved stone volumes framing an open-air amphitheatre on the water.

Saturday: Castle to the Gulbenkian

  1. Castelo de São Jorge

    Moorish walls, the dig of the Iron Age settlement and the periscope camera obscura; go at opening and read the hill in order.

  2. Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian

    The 1969 complex is the city's best modernism, long concrete galleries sunk into a garden; Kengo Kuma's 2024 extension adds a canopied façade.

  3. EPUR

    Vincent Farges's tasting menu in a stripped-back room over the rooftops of Chiado, one plate at a time, no music.

Sunday: The rebuilt city

  1. Praça do Comércio and the Baixa grid

    Pombal's grid of 1758, earthquake-proofed with timber cages inside the walls; stand under the arch and read the plan up Rua Augusta.

  2. Siza's Chiado reconstruction

    After the 1988 fire Siza rebuilt the block behind the old façades; find the terraces that stitch the Baixa to the Carmo convent.

  3. Ponto Final

    A terrace on the Almada shore opposite Lisbon, reached by the Cais do Sodré ferry, with the whole waterfront lit across the Tagus. Check the last ferry back.

Monday: Under the bank, and the plotters' café

  1. Núcleo Arqueológico da Rua dos Correeiros

    Under a bank, Roman fish-salting tanks, a Moorish house and Pombal's timber foundations, shown by a guide in an hour; book, it is free.

  2. Metro stations

    Tomás Taveira's coloured concrete cathedral at Olaias and the Alice-in-Wonderland rabbits at Cais do Sodré; ride between them.

  3. Martinho da Arcada

    The 1782 café under the arcades where Pessoa kept a table and the 1910 republicans their meetings; lunch, then the metro from Terreiro do Paço.

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