Lisbon for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The highest viewpoint in the city, a pine tree and a chapel, everything from the castle to the bridge laid out below.

Stairs and alleys through the quarter where fado was born, past Severa's house and the Cape Verdean grill smoke.

An old fishing-tackle shop serving tinned fish on bread with a cold beer, hooks and rods still on the walls.

Hire a bike and ride the flat riverside path west before the walkers, the tower and the monument empty at that hour.

Ten minutes across the Tagus, then walk the derelict warehouses of Cais do Ginjal under the cliff to the lift up to Cristo Rei.

A table on the quay edge at the end of the walk, grilled fish and the whole of Lisbon lighting up across the water.

Forty minutes along the coast, then a bike along the cliff road past Boca do Inferno to the wind-stripped beach at Guincho.

Board at the start to get a seat, and ride the whole bone-shaking route through Graça, Alfama, Baixa and Estrela.

A counter seat in a tiny Alfama tasca, petiscos chalked on a board, a half-bottle of Douro red for one.

Be at the gate when it opens, walk the ramparts with the peacocks and have the viewpoints to yourself for half an hour.

Camilla Watson's portraits of the neighbourhood's elders printed onto the walls of the houses where they live.

A hole in the wall with a queue of office workers, pork in garlic broth on a roll, eaten standing before the metro.