Lisbon for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The garden terrace facing the castle, a kiosk coffee or a glass of white, and the week left on the funicular below.

A vaulted cellar bar under a ceiling of green bottles, a flight of Setúbal wines poured slowly with a plate of cheese.

Modern Portuguese in a relaxed Chiado room, the marinated scallops and a bottle of Alentejo white, home before eleven.

A long breakfast upstairs at the 1829 pastry shop, pastries and coffee refilled, the square below doing the moving for you.

The biggest hotel spa in the city sells day entry: indoor pool, steam, sauna and a treatment; the afternoon disappears.

Vítor Sobral's petiscos in Campo de Ourique, ordered slowly, a bottle of Dão, and a taxi home by ten.

The 1969 garden of ducks and concrete pavilions, benches by the lake; the museum only if it rains, which it will not.

A Minho lunch that runs to four: ham at the door, a seafood rice for two and the owner's wine, in the Cardoso family's 1974 house.

Sunset at the Graça kiosk with a glass, the castle and the bridge in one frame, then an early night.

Breakfast under the 1922 mirrors with waiters in waistcoats; nothing in the room has moved in a century and nobody will hurry you.

The marble basilica of 1790; the dome climb is optional, the cool nave and the bench outside under the trees are not.

The chocolate cake on Rua das Flores, one slice and a coffee, then the metro; the airport can have the rest of the afternoon.