Lisbon for The Three Generations: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
Seven hills, one white light, and the Tagus below.
A weekend everyone can keep up with. Flat routes and places to sit, a boat or a funicular for the view, one highlight a day that works at eight and at eighty, and dinners with a long table.
Friday: The big square
- Praça do Comércio
A flat square the size of a parade ground with benches under the arcades, the river steps and the cafés; everyone arrives at their own pace.
- Lisboa Story Centre
An hour of the city's story told sitting down, the earthquake in a 4D room; audio guides in every language and a lift to each floor.
- Martinho da Arcada
Dinner at seven under the arcades: bacalhau for the elders, a steak for the rest, the oldest café in the city with the longest tables.
Saturday: Fish and the river
- Oceanário de Lisboa
Everything on one loop around the big tank with benches and a lift; the penguins hold the eight-year-olds, the sea dragons the eighty.
- Senhor Peixe
A long table on the Pimenta promenade for grilled fish and salad, the river beside you and no steps anywhere.
- Telecabine Lisboa
The cable car for the view, eight minutes seated, gondolas that take pushchairs; then back to the hotel for the rest hour.
Sunday: Belém
- Mosteiro dos Jerónimos church
The Manueline nave is free and level, pews to rest in; the cloister ticket and its stairs are for the ones who want them.
- Pastéis de Belém
The custard tarts in the tiled back rooms, which seat a family of ten faster than the takeaway queue outside suggests.
- Museu Nacional dos Coches
The royal coaches in a 2015 hall with lifts and ramps, forty minutes of gilt and a café at the end.
Monday: Up by funicular
- Elevador da Glória
The 1885 funicular up from Restauradores, two minutes seated, to the garden terrace with the castle view and benches in the shade.
- Igreja de São Roque
The plain Jesuit church with the chapel assembled in Rome from lapis and agate; a flat floor, and a pew for each generation.
- Cervejaria Trindade
Lunch in the tiled 1836 beer hall two doors down, big tables, big portions, and the Baixa-Chiado metro to the airport beneath it.