Prague for The Curious Wanderers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The sixteenth-century cottages Rudolf II's goldsmiths and guards lived in; number 22 is where Kafka wrote in the winter of 1916.

Carve and string a lime-wood puppet with the makers who still supply the city's theatres.

A medieval cellar lit only by candles, pork knuckle on a board and dark lager in stone mugs.

The Theological and Philosophical halls, and in the corridor between them the dodo remains, narwhal tusks and dried sea creatures of the abbot's cabinet.

A laboratory revealed by the 2002 flood, with its furnaces, retorts and the tunnel said to run under the river to the castle.

No menu: lift the lids on the stove and choose the stew, then eat it on the castle square terrace.

Forty thousand skeletons arranged by František Rint in 1870 into a chandelier, a coat of arms and his own signature.

Put on the white miner's coat and go down the medieval shaft that paid for Bohemia's kings.

A brewery since 1499, its own black lager served in the gothic-vaulted hall under gaslight and dark wood.

A crooked lane of tiny houses behind the Loreta where Tycho Brahe lived and ceramicists and painters now keep studios.

Twelve layers of graves and the tomb of Rabbi Loew, maker of the golem, with pebbles and folded wishes on the stone.

Hana Michopulu's chlebíčky, the open sandwich reinvented with beetroot, egg and celeriac remoulade; three of them and a coffee make a lunch.