Prague for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Where Stalin's statue stood, a giant red metronome ticks over the bridges; the beer garden tables look down the whole river.

Two kilometres of embankment with the old river-side cellars opened as bars and a swimming boat, busiest on a Friday evening.

A counter seat and a bowl of bún bò nam bộ in the Vietnamese-Czech kitchen that fed the quarter before it was fashionable.

Climb through the orchards before the funicular runs; the Eiffel-copy tower is shut and the city below is yours.

A little municipal ferry on an ordinary transit ticket, then the riverside path to the Troja vineyards.

A beer bar with a rotating tap list and a proper kitchen, where one person at the counter is the normal state of things.

Charles IV's fortress for the crown jewels, climbed from the station before the coach parties arrive.

Through the limestone forest to the flooded quarry canyon, then down to Srbsko for the train home.

Two dozen Czech microbrewery taps and a kitchen that does one goulash well, counter by the taps.

A run through the Šárka gorge between the rock gates, a wild valley inside the city limits.

The largest equestrian statue in Europe and the functionalist mausoleum once meant for Gottwald, with the city laid out below.

Coffee and a chlebíček under the art-nouveau dome of the old station hall before the airport bus.