Prague for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
A hundred spires, and the river that reflects them.
History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.
Friday: The riverfront and the cubists
- Dancing House
Gehry and Milunić's 1996 glass tower leaning into its concrete partner; the rooftop bar is the best section of the Rašín embankment.
- House of the Black Madonna
Josef Gočár's 1912 department store is the manifesto of Czech Cubism; the museum floors hold Janák's chairs and the crystal-faceted stair.
- Café Imperial
A 1914 room entirely clad in glazed ceramic tile, columns and ceiling included, with goulash and dumplings beneath it.
Saturday: The castle, the clock, the plotters
- St Vitus Cathedral and the Old Royal Palace
Parler's gothic cathedral and Vladislav Hall, where knights rode in on horseback; the window the 1618 Defenestration used is pointed out on request.
- Old Town Hall and the Astronomical Clock
The guided tour through the gothic chapel and the medieval cellars below the square, then the lift up the tower; the clock itself is read from the pavement.
- U Zlatého tygra
The pub where Hrabal held court and Havel brought Clinton for a beer, Pilsner put down before you ask; take a bench and keep your voice down.
Sunday: Loos and the functionalists
- Villa Müller
Adolf Loos's 1930 Raumplan house, booked by timed tour: cipollino marble, lemon-wood boudoir, every room on its own level.
- Veletržní palác
Oldřich Tyl and Josef Fuchs's 1928 trade-fair palace, the first functionalist building of its size in Europe, now the modern collection of the National Gallery.
- Eska
A converted textile factory with a raw concrete gallery, bread from their own mill and potatoes cooked in ash.
Monday: Rondocubism to the library
- Legiobanka
Gočár's 1923 bank in national-style rondocubism, with Otto Gutfreund's frieze of legionnaires over the door.
- National Technical Library
Projektil's 2009 rounded-square library, a concrete atrium with Dan Perjovschi's graffiti drawn across the walls.
- Kantýna
A butcher's counter set into a former bank hall; order the steak tartare by weight and eat standing.