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Prague for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A hundred spires, and the river that reflects them.

History and architecture, read in the right order. Medieval on Saturday, modernism on Sunday, a guide who knows the gossip, and a drink where the plotters drank.

Friday: The riverfront and the cubists

  1. Dancing House

    Gehry and Milunić's 1996 glass tower leaning into its concrete partner; the rooftop bar is the best section of the Rašín embankment.

  2. House of the Black Madonna

    Josef Gočár's 1912 department store is the manifesto of Czech Cubism; the museum floors hold Janák's chairs and the crystal-faceted stair.

  3. Café Imperial

    A 1914 room entirely clad in glazed ceramic tile, columns and ceiling included, with goulash and dumplings beneath it.

Saturday: The castle, the clock, the plotters

  1. St Vitus Cathedral and the Old Royal Palace

    Parler's gothic cathedral and Vladislav Hall, where knights rode in on horseback; the window the 1618 Defenestration used is pointed out on request.

  2. Old Town Hall and the Astronomical Clock

    The guided tour through the gothic chapel and the medieval cellars below the square, then the lift up the tower; the clock itself is read from the pavement.

  3. U Zlatého tygra

    The pub where Hrabal held court and Havel brought Clinton for a beer, Pilsner put down before you ask; take a bench and keep your voice down.

Sunday: Loos and the functionalists

  1. Villa Müller

    Adolf Loos's 1930 Raumplan house, booked by timed tour: cipollino marble, lemon-wood boudoir, every room on its own level.

  2. Veletržní palác

    Oldřich Tyl and Josef Fuchs's 1928 trade-fair palace, the first functionalist building of its size in Europe, now the modern collection of the National Gallery.

  3. Eska

    A converted textile factory with a raw concrete gallery, bread from their own mill and potatoes cooked in ash.

Monday: Rondocubism to the library

  1. Legiobanka

    Gočár's 1923 bank in national-style rondocubism, with Otto Gutfreund's frieze of legionnaires over the door.

  2. National Technical Library

    Projektil's 2009 rounded-square library, a concrete atrium with Dan Perjovschi's graffiti drawn across the walls.

  3. Kantýna

    A butcher's counter set into a former bank hall; order the steak tartare by weight and eat standing.

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