Prague for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The Vinohrady market under Plečnik's church, Friday afternoon stalls of smoked meats, sheep cheese and plum cake; a beer from the tap stand.

A wine bar that pours only Czech bottles, a flight of Moravian whites with the grower's story for each; the Pálava is the one to remember.

Svíčková, beef in cream sauce with dumplings and cranberries, done the way the Ambiente group rebuilt it from old cookbooks; tank Pilsner alongside.

The embankment stalls at opening, before the crowds: Moravian goat cheese, a trout smoked that morning, koláče from the Šumava baker.

A Czech menu cooked in a teaching kitchen inside the market halls, dumplings rolled by hand, goulash and apple strudel eaten together.

The starred tasting menu built from nineteenth-century Czech cookbooks, eleven small courses around an open kitchen; book a month out.

The bakery counter of the Karlín factory restaurant, sourdough from their mill and a breakfast of soft eggs and smoked fish.

The Sunday roast done the Czech way, duck with red cabbage and two kinds of dumpling, in a big neighbourhood room that fills by one.

The brewery's city show in the old Slavonic Bank building, a tasting of unpasteurised lager poured three ways by a trained tapster.

A bakery queue at eight for plum and poppy-seed koláče and a rye loaf, eaten on the way to the tram.

The market that has stood here since 1232, fruit and honey among the souvenirs; buy the Czech garlic and the dried mushrooms.

Lunch in the old royal mint, chlebíčky and a plate of pork with cabbage, close enough to the square to watch the clock strike.