Prague for The Slow Weekenders: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A walled garden of roses and herbs behind Wenceslas Square, benches under the pergola and the gothic church wall for shade; nobody hurries here.

A spa built inside a Renaissance chapel, the old floor shown under glass; an hour's massage booked for the evening and the hotel's quiet after.

A terrace under the castle walls with the whole Old Town spread below, duck and a Moravian red; the lift from the hotel saves the climb.

Breakfast under the neo-renaissance ceiling, a soft egg in a glass and the house croissants, the newspapers on sticks by the door.

Kupka's abstractions and Gutfreund's cubist bronzes in a converted mill on the island, a small museum with a river terrace and nothing else to see today.

A late lunch on the terrace of the old brickworks, the Charles Bridge filling the view, a bottle of Riesling and no plans until dinner, if dinner.

A wooden tub of hops and malt in the Ungelt courtyard, an unlimited tap of Bernard at your elbow and a straw bed after; as ridiculous as it sounds, and restful.

Sunday lunch by the river at the Charles Bridge end of the Old Town, a set menu and a window over the Vltava. Take your time before the ramparts.

Tram to the old fortress hill, a bench on the walls above the river and the sun going down behind the castle; nothing to pay and nothing to do.

Coffee and a Sachertorte in the art-nouveau café of the Municipal House, chandeliers and a pianist, the last breakfast taken slowly.

The hour-long tour of Smetana Hall and the Mucha-painted Mayor's Hall, the only way into the rooms upstairs; English tours most days.

Lunch under the glazed tiles of 1914, veal and a glass of wine, five minutes from the airport bus and no reason to rush it.