Prague for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

Plastic cups of Gambrinus under the chestnuts above the river, the bridges lined up below; the view costs nothing and the beer two euros.

The Karlín branch of the city's best pub chain, kitchen until late, schnitzel and pickled sausage with tank Pilsner, before the night starts.

A small bar of rum and absinthe cocktails off the embankment, a booking or a wait at the door, and a list that runs to two hundred.

A corner café in Letná with cracked plaster and a brunch that lasts until three; eggs, sourdough and a flat white to restart the day.

A glass jazz club on the water at Smíchov, two sets a night and the late one after eleven; the river goes black behind the band.

A 1920s cinema turned club on Dlouhá, drum and bass or techno depending on the night, open until the trams start again.

The grand first-floor café of 1902 where Kafka and Einstein were regulars, breakfast under pink walls and a billiard room next door.

The slope above Vinohrady where the city lies on the grass, the castle across the valley and a beer garden under the trees for later.

The cellar club where Clinton played saxophone in 1994, a late set on a Sunday and a small room that fills by ten.

Coffee and eggs on the first floor of the Lucerna arcade, David Černý's dead horse hanging from the ceiling outside the window.

The long boulevard-square under the museum, the saint on his horse, the spot where the 1989 crowds stood; walk it once before the airport.

The 1891 museum at the top of the square, restored, with the pantheon under the dome and a sky bridge to the new building; open Mondays.