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Kraków

A Gothic square, a river dragon and a thousand-year-old market.

A Renaissance square the size of a village, a royal hill above the Vistula, and a Jewish quarter of candle-lit cafés. Kraków is compact, old and unashamedly good at dumplings.

Ten ways to spend the weekend

• The Romantics: A view at the right hour, a long dinner, one splurge, a slow Sunday.
• The Thrill Seekers: Dawn runs, coastal rides, a climb, a swim, and dinners you have earned.
• The Time Travellers: Old towns, the one building worth the ticket, and the tour that is actually good.
• The Food Pilgrims: Markets at opening, one tasting menu, a cooking class, the counter the locals queue for.
• The Night Owls: Late dinners, live music, the bars that matter, and the walk home at dawn.
• The Family Explorers: One big thing each half-day, playgrounds and water, early dinners, a nap built in.
• The Curious Wanderers: A bit of everything, well paced: the classic weekend with a few surprises.
• The Solo Traveller: Travel light, start early, sit at the bar, and let the city set the pace.
• The Slow Weekenders: Long breakfasts, a spa, one thing a day, and nowhere to be.
• The Three Generations: Grandparents, parents and children at one table: short walks, lifts, benches, big dinners.