Kraków for The Food Pilgrims: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The round market hall of the old Jewish quarter, ringed by bars and the best-known street-food windows in town.

A zapiekanka, the Kraków street dish: a half-baguette with mushrooms and cheese, grilled and glazed with ketchup. Pick your toppings, eat it standing.

Polish classics with a deep list of flavoured vodkas, named for the old oak-aged spirit; start with herring, finish with the plum dumplings.

The city's open-air market since the fourteenth century: smoked oscypek cheese, pickles, honey and seasonal mushrooms; go early and bring cash.

The medieval market beneath the square, where the traders weighed pepper and wax; a good primer on why Kraków ate well.

A communist-era milk bar on the Royal Way, with pierogi, kotlet and compote on a tray for a few euros. Pay at the till first.

A tasting menu of modern Polish cooking, with seasonal dishes in an open kitchen; the serious dinner of the weekend.

The salt that built the kingdom's wealth: chambers carved from rock salt, a chapel with chandeliers of crystals, and a cellar restaurant at the end.

A late lunch of hand-made dumplings, the sweet cheese ones with a spoon of sour cream and a cup of tea.

A cellar of old wine in Kazimierz and a short, modern Polish menu: smoked trout, duck breast, a Polish wine flight.

Come back on a weekday for the full market: buy an obwarzanek, a ring of chewy poppy-seed bread, from the cart outside.

A drinking chocolate as thick as custard in the old Wedel house, with a slice of the cream cake; the sweet farewell.