Kraków for The Time Travellers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The Renaissance trading hall in the middle of Europe's largest medieval square; arrive when the stallholders pack up and the pigeons take over.

A walk through the medieval merchants' street beneath the square, with stalls, coins and a child's grave; timed entry, closed Tuesdays.

A cellar restaurant in thirteenth-century vaults, with roast duck and old Polish recipes in the oldest part of town.

The royal apartments with the Sigismund tapestries and a coffered ceiling of carved heads; timed entry, so book the morning slot.

The Kraków under occupation exhibition in the former enamel works, thoughtful and sombre; tickets are timed and the weekend slots go early.

Said to be the oldest restaurant in Poland, famous for a banquet of kings in 1364; roast duck and a long wine list among old portraits.

A guided visit of about three and a half hours at the former camp, in silence and with respect; book an official guided slot weeks ahead.

Photographs of surviving Jewish heritage in Poland, in a former factory; it ends the day in thought rather than sightseeing.

A quiet supper in Kazimierz after a heavy day: soup, dumplings and tea, with no need to talk.

The Gothic gate in the surviving medieval walls, with a stretch of ramparts beside it; the Planty park follows the old moat.

Veit Stoss's carved altarpiece, the largest Gothic one in Europe, and a blue ceiling of gold stars; enter by the side door.

The Art Nouveau café where the Green Balloon cabaret schemed and satirised the Habsburgs; coffee, cake and a paper-covered lampshade.