Kraków for The Curious Wanderers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The Renaissance trading hall in the middle of the great square; browse the amber and the carved boxes once the tourists thin out.

The medieval market street preserved beneath the square, with the stalls and a thousand-year-old grave; open until eight.

A first dinner on the square: pierogi, beetroot soup and a pork cutlet, with a table to watch the passing crowd.

A working Art Nouveau workshop that still makes the city's church windows; the guided visit lets you handle the glass.

A garden courtyard in Kazimierz for a long lunch of soup, cheesecake and coffee after the glass.

The royal coronation church above the river, with the tombs of kings and poets; it closes at five.

A Kazimierz dinner of Polish classics with a pour of local beer, in a candle-lit room.

The story of the steelworks town Stalin ordered, with a Soviet-era flat and the cinema; a tram ride from the centre.

A socialist-realist dining room in the middle of Nowa Huta, serving a lunch of cutlets and compote at prices from another era.

The great artificial hill with the best view over the city; the fort at its foot has a chapel and a café.

Polish classics and flavoured vodkas in Kazimierz; the herring and the plum-stuffed dumplings are the order.

Photographs of Jewish heritage across Poland in a converted factory, with a bookshop and a calm café.

A calm Kazimierz café for a soup and a poppy-seed cake before the airport.