Kraków for The Solo Traveller: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The wide old square of the Jewish quarter, with synagogues and quiet cafés; a good first walk to get your bearings alone.

Eat a zapiekanka standing at the window on the round market, a baguette pizza that costs less than a coffee elsewhere.

A cellar with live jazz nightly, and a stool at the bar if the tables are full; a solo-friendly room.

Be at the door at opening for Leonardo's Lady with an Ermine without the crowd; timed slots fill, so book.

A cafeteria milk bar where you take a tray and sit at a shared table: pierogi and compote for the price of a coffee.

The royal coronation church and its bell tower, with the tombs of kings; the climb to the bell is worth it alone.

Take a seat at the bar counter for a bowl of żurek and a beer, in a friendly Kazimierz room.

Climb the mound when it opens; in the early light you share the summit and the view of the Tatras with a few joggers.

Polish painting and the great Matejko canvases in a socialist-modern block; quiet on Sunday mornings.

A candle-lit café with an excellent apple pie and a corner table for a book.

Order a bowl of beetroot soup and a glass of the house vodka at the bar; the staff will tell you what's good.

A proper bagel at the counter with a flat white: cheap, quick and good for eavesdropping on locals.

The medieval market street beneath the square, quiet at opening; it is open on Mondays when other museums are closed.