Kraków for The Family Explorers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend
A Gothic square, a river dragon and a thousand-year-old market.
A weekend the children will remember and the parents will survive. Short walks between real highlights, a boat or a tram instead of a museum queue, dinners at six, and room to run.
Friday: Dragons and dumplings
- Main Market Square
Let the children chase the pigeons while you wait for the hour: the trumpet call from the tower breaks off mid-note, as it has for centuries.
- Wawel Dragon statue
A bronze dragon that breathes real fire every few minutes, below the castle hill; the kids will want the tale told twice.
- Pierogi u Vincenta
An early dumpling dinner in Kazimierz with a children's portion: the sweet cheese and the potato ones vanish first.
Saturday: Zoo, then trams
- Kraków Zoo
A hilly zoo in the Wolski forest with elephants, giraffes and big cats; allow three hours and take the bus up from the centre.
- Museum of Municipal Engineering
A tram depot of old trams, buses and a model of the street underground, with levers and switches to press.
- Pod Aniołami
An early supper in vaulted cellars on the Royal Way, with a children's menu and the grilled chicken and fries they expect.
Sunday: Flying things and open grass
- Polish Aviation Museum
Planes parked on a field and in hangars, with cockpits to peer into and space for them to run; closed Mondays.
- Błonia Meadow
A great flat common for kites, balls and scooters, with the Kościuszko Mound for a backdrop; bring a picnic.
- Hawełka
Dinner on the main square at six: schnitzel, potato pancakes and a view of the horse carriages.
Monday: Underground and chocolate
- Rynek Underground
A tour under the square with touch screens and a lit-up medieval street; the children's favourite is the dragon fable.
- E. Wedel Chocolate Lounge
Hot chocolate thick enough to stand a spoon in and cake for lunch; the deal-sealer before the airport.