Kraków for The Romantics: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A pedestrian bridge strung with acrobat sculptures; walk it as the lights come on over the Vistula and Wawel turns gold behind you.

A candle-lit French bistro in the old Jewish quarter: duck confit, a decent Burgundy, and tables close enough to hold hands across.

An antique-stuffed Kazimierz bar of mismatched armchairs and candle stubs, good for one last glass and no conversation you need to finish.

Poland's coronation church, crowded with royal tombs; climb to the Sigismund Bell and touch it with your left hand for luck.

Leonardo's Lady with an Ermine in a quiet room of her own, after the long restoration; book a timed slot, as weekends fill.

A tasting menu above the main square in a Renaissance house, Polish ingredients with French manners; ask for a window table over the lit basilica.

Late breakfast in a leafy courtyard in Kazimierz, cheesecake and strong coffee at a table that never hurries you.

An artificial hill with the widest view of the city and the Tatras on a clear day; arrive an hour before sunset.

Candle-lit brick vaults off the Royal Way, roast duck and plum sauce, a long table for two and a short walk home.

A 1910 café inside the Cloth Hall, stained-glass lamps and a view onto the square; breakfast with a slice of poppy-seed cake.

Step in just before noon for Veit Stoss's carved altarpiece, then hear the trumpet call from the tower breaking off mid-note.