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Kraków for The Thrill Seekers: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

A Gothic square, a river dragon and a thousand-year-old market.

You see a city from its hills, its water and its bike lanes. Early starts, real sweat, a hike or a paddle out of town, and the best recovery meals in the place.

Friday: Boulevard run and dumplings

  1. Vistula Boulevards

    A flat riverside run past the castle and the dragon statue, six or seven kilometres to the footbridge and back before dark.

  2. Pierogi u Vincenta

    Hand-folded dumplings by the plate at a Kazimierz counter, the ruskie with fried onions are exactly the carbs you came for.

  3. Endzior

    The zapiekanka window on the round market, a baguette pizza the size of a forearm and the best-value recovery meal in town.

Saturday: Limestone gorges and a castle

  1. Ojców National Park

    Limestone gorges and the Hercules' Club rock north of town; take the red trail to Pieskowa Skała, about 12 kilometres on rolling forest paths.

  2. Pieskowa Skała Castle

    A Renaissance castle with arcaded courtyard at the end of the trail, with a fine collection of European art inside; closed Mondays.

  3. Miodova

    Big plates of Polish classics in Kazimierz after a hard day: pork knuckle, żurek in a bread bowl, a cold local beer.

Sunday: Run, descend, climb

  1. Błonia Meadow

    A 48-hectare common ringed by a flat four-kilometre path; run it at dawn when only dog walkers and the mist are about.

  2. Wieliczka Salt Mine Miners' Route

    Hard hats, headlamps and a pick: the working route crawls through tunnels and lets you hack at the salt wall. Book ahead; groups are small.

  3. Kościuszko Mound

    Climb the spiral path to the top of the 34-metre mound for the whole city on one skyline; the stairs near the fort count as intervals.

  4. Hawełka

    A hearty table on the main square for hungry people: pork cutlet, potato pancakes with goulash and dill, plenty of it.

Monday: A ride to the abbey

  1. Tyniec Abbey

    Cycle the flat riverside track about twelve kilometres upstream to the Benedictine abbey on its cliff; you can rent bikes at the Wawel boulevards.

  2. Bagelmama

    A proper New York-style bagel with smoked salmon and cream cheese in Kazimierz, an easy refuel before the flight home.

Other ways to see Kraków