Kraków for The Night Owls: a Friday-to-Monday weekend

The bar-ringed round market at the hour it wakes up; take a lap and choose a door by the music.

A hearty first dinner before the night: pork knuckle or pierogi, a mug of cold beer, a table by the window.

A candle-lit bar of wax-dripped tables where bands play in the back room most nights; get there early for a seat.

English-language bookshop with a brunch counter: eggs, brownies, flat whites and a long recovery on a couch.

The contemporary art museum next to Schindler's factory, with sharp, odd shows to wake up to; closed Mondays.

A dinner of Polish cooking in a house on the main square, with a window for the evening, before the night begins.

A low-ceilinged cellar of live jazz with sets nightly; a cover of a few euros gets you a table and a drink.

A calm Kazimierz café for a long Sunday breakfast of eggs, shakshuka and coffee; the quiet before the evening.

Photographs of Jewish heritage in Poland, in a former factory with a café; open until six on Sundays.

The legendary cabaret cellar under the main square, with concerts, poetry and satire most nights; check the programme before you go.

A bar where the tables are old sewing machines, and the crowd stays until the small hours; order a draught beer.

Sourdough, jam and good coffee on the edge of the Planty, a gentle landing after a long night before the flight.

A last stretch under the chestnuts on the old moat's green ring, to clear the head before the airport.